Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. So I installed my Hicas delete kit.(picture below). After install,  i had my alignment done. The bushings are the ones I installed that came with it. Now when I drive and shifting through gears, i feel my rear end wanting to fish tail a little. Is this normal? I'm driving an r33 gtst. Just want to know so I don't take her back to garage to get them to look it over again. 

15850554916634866986402043585056.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480021-hicas-delete-question/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If it's all bolted up properly and the alignment is good, just keep driving it. You'll get used to the changes with more seat time. 

Oh ok. My daily is an S2000 and it doesn't feel like that at all. 

I’ve heard this before after hicas removal, check your bolts and what not make sure everything is right. drive it for a bit if you can’t stand It try a different alignment or find a gtr lol. Just kidding should be fine alignment may just not suit your driving style.

On 3/24/2020 at 5:28 PM, GTSBoy said:

What is the rear toe after the alignment?

I really have no idea. I have a 6 month warranty in the alignment. If I were to take her back, is there a number I should be shooting for her? All I know is that it is in the green. 

38 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

I’ve heard this before after hicas removal, check your bolts and what not make sure everything is right. drive it for a bit if you can’t stand It try a different alignment or find a gtr lol. Just kidding should be fine alignment may just not suit your driving style.

Ok. I do have a warranty on the alignment. If I were to take her back to redo the alignment, is there a rear setting I should be shooting for or just make sure she is in the green?

2 minutes ago, Aphonechanh said:

I really have no idea. I have a 6 month warranty in the alignment. If I were to take her back, is there a number I should be shooting for her? All I know is that it is in the green. 

Toe out would be way twitchy. Zero toe should be very easy to disturb. Toe in should be more stable.

Be aware that static toe, as measured on the rack, may completely change when the vehicle is moving, particularly if you have stuffed bushes in any of the arms.

You should have got a sheet with your alignment telling you your numbers...I got a feeling your alignment is not wrong just not set up the way you want it. I know when we get alignments done around here you can see the whole review of what they did and your final numbers. 

Do this for the rear, if you want some stability.

  • -1 degree camber (these things camber in hard when they squat)
  • 1mm toe in each side (2mm total toe in, on squat these shit boxes toe out)

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...