Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 2/3/2022 at 10:14 PM, mlr said:

The car is a great place to be in cruising along, inside the cabin you can barely hear the growl of the engine

Shame, you should give up and buy mine instead, barely hear the engine? What kind of build is that. Why isn't it offensively loud until you drown it out with the stereo till the point you cannot use your rear vision mirror anymore? (but somehow quiet outside the car)

  • Haha 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Slightly less bogan without the reverse cowl

Paint match of the bonnet and front bar by Fineline is spot on, again

Also sold the old bonnet with the cowl pretty much straight away, which was nice, as it triggered me every time I looked at it in the shed 20220220_080419.thumb.jpg.a998a718430dad39166e5260ad1e99df.jpg

In other news: lowering the engine to fit the spacers looks like a combination of lowering the engine mounts by 5mm and the K-frame by 5mm, this will give me all the clearances required and not screw with rhe steering geometry 

Well, that's the plan

download.jpeg-4.thumb.jpg.ba7081e8686057a75e4101ce09fcbae3.jpg

  • Like 4

Stuck the suspension in

4wd gasser mode go on

 

Guard to center of hub

Front 365

Rear 355

Clears all the speed humps around work, no scrapping on the driveway at the girls

Dampening set to 10 clicks from full hard, may soften it up a bit more though 

Car needs s wash bad

20220223_144451.jpg

20220223_144508.jpg

  • Like 1
On 23/02/2022 at 3:37 PM, GTSBoy said:

I don't like it. Lower it 75mm and change the wheels to something extremely chrome.

On 23/02/2022 at 3:54 PM, Ben C34 said:

SSSSSSSSSL Springs bro

Nope

Need height for gutter jumping

607855294_images(6).thumb.jpeg.5f6641c83ce9d65c29f6c3a00c278af8.jpeg

The old girl is just about to hit 140k km, so near on 25k km since I got it in April 2020

And whilst the initial plan was to only keep it till I found something better, it has grown on me, to the point of I cannot see myself selling it

Even Jackie has come around and enjoys going on long country drives, although she does sleep through alot of the driving, it's just like cruising on a comfy lounge chair

I am truly owning the bogan V8 cruise ship lifestyle 

  • Like 1

I genuinely enjoy cruising around in an auto 2008 Hyundai Accent when I just want to go places and don't want any fuss, performance or emotion and just look out the window all tranquil like when I commute about, so I understand the above post and where you're coming from.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

New boots for the Bogan machine

Rear are 275/40 17 Toyo Proxes R888R, 100 AA A UTQG, some OK reviews from people using them as daily and drag tyres, supposed to be much better the MT S/S Drag radials in the wet, nearly as good as them in the dry, and better that my current RS4 in the dry, supposedly , time will tell, if they are good but wear out real fast, I might get a second set of 9.5 x 17 FR-1 for fair weather driving. $300 a tyre

tn_ty-20170630-111015-57071.thumb.jpg.ee29c1ca57ae7f6c0447464a5641994a.jpg

 

Fronts are 235/45 17 Toyo Proxes C1S (oem size), which will surfice as the car is a big fat boat where hitting corners hard is not a thing, they just need to not aqua plane me off the road when its raining, well that's the plan anyway, $155 a tyre

tn_ty_97437571.thumb.jpg.1072ac8d37354e4f21b3fa923c0b9f07.jpg

On 13/03/2022 at 10:33 AM, Duncan said:

Have you done many klm with the rears on? I'd expect them to be mega noisey, that's the price of grip....

Yeah, they might sound a bit like muddies on a 4wd, but they should hook up alot better.

The ain't fitted yet, Jackie picked them up and they are sitting in the garage.

I'm currently in Lismore pointing at things that are muddy and/or broken for the "team" to pick up, or, working out how to get cows out of the top of trees.

It ain't pretty here.

Tempe tyres told Jackie they are only for race cars, after she picked them up she called and asked WTF, LOL, she was having a moment, I'll buy her something shiny and all will be well again on my return.

Comprise is another one of my middle names.

 

I had to cancel my booking at Autotech to get the thermal spacers installed because of work, meh, work pays the bills, but whilst I've been away I've had a little down time here and there, so, .........Idle hands are the devils play thing.

I've bit the proverbial bullet and will get the interchiller done at the same time.

There isn't alot of options brand wise, but Autotech has installed a few FI-interchillers with some really good results. 

I'm not looking for more power, it's just to keep the IAT under control, and by under control I mean possibly below ambient IAT, dependant on how deep I want to go with additional condensers, other "stuff" and coin

https://fiinterchillers.com/

 

  • Like 2

That is awesome, provided you have a water to air cooler already...

Now I want it... even though it is entirely unusable for me.... how do I run a water to air cooler and an interchiller while being N/A lol, I demand sub zero temperatures!

  • Haha 1
On 17/03/2022 at 9:50 AM, Kinkstaah said:

That is awesome, provided you have a water to air cooler already...

Now I want it... even though it is entirely unusable for me.... how do I run a water to air cooler and an interchiller while being N/A lol, I demand sub zero temperatures!

I'm just waiting for a Spiro to give me call, I'll drop some coin so he can gather the required parts, then when everything arrives I'll drop the car off for some......images.jpeg-1.thumb.jpg.c4da7e7c613dabb46801259108f4de85.jpg

 

And by "when everything arrives" doesn't count for other random bits that may be required mid install.......as usual 🙄 

Bloody cars

Just keep in mind this kit insults the laws of thermo dynamics. It WILL solve your issues by running the kit before you launch the car and having IAT _before_ you drive.

However if you're driving all the time with the system on, your AC must also always be on. You will lose more power driving the AC compressor than you will get from colder IAT's. Damn you, fundamental laws of the universe.

(it however could reduce knock etc, be more consistent though).

On 17/03/2022 at 4:24 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Just keep in mind this kit insults the laws of thermo dynamics. It WILL solve your issues by running the kit before you launch the car and having IAT _before_ you drive.

However if you're driving all the time with the system on, your AC must also always be on. You will lose more power driving the AC compressor than you will get from colder IAT's. Damn you, fundamental laws of the universe.

(it however could reduce knock etc, be more consistent though).

My beastie isn't a race car, my aircon is always on anyway, so cruising around will always have low IAT as the chiller is, ummm, chilling.

 

The issues come when the car is at full throttle, the AC shuts off and then once the chilled coolant has gone thru the wta intercooler it starts to warm up

But, it will last a no problem for a roll.

Ive chatted to a few people with them and they have nothing but good reviews. 

They recommend getting a larger header/coolant tank for the WTA cooler if you want to keep sub freezing coolant for a whole 1/4 mile pull though, although only a coulpe of cars actually had the larger tanks, and the cars that didn't said that the AIT only raised a bit at the end of a run, and it only took a couple of minutes heading back down the return track to get the coolant temps down super low again

I'm not to fussed though, as long as my IAT is happy enough to not pull timing.

It looks like weird science, and I'm all for weird science

kelly-lebrock-weird-science_u-L-PJ796S0.thumb.jpg.1988b9976513386624f2dd587a5d4544.jpg

 

  • Like 1
On 3/17/2022 at 1:24 PM, Kinkstaah said:

Just keep in mind this kit insults the laws of thermo dynamics.

It might seem like it does, but it actually doesn't - by a long way.

The beauty of compressor based phase change cooling/heating is that you leverage the mechanical/electrical power you put in, by a factor of (up to) about 5. Exact same as reverse cycle airconditioning for the house. When used as a heater, you put your 2kW worth of electrical power into it, and you get about 10kW worth of heating out of it. All courtesy of the remarkable ability of heat to want to flow downhill all the time.

On 3/17/2022 at 9:45 PM, GTSBoy said:

It might seem like it does, but it actually doesn't - by a long way.

The beauty of compressor based phase change cooling/heating is that you leverage the mechanical/electrical power you put in, by a factor of (up to) about 5. Exact same as reverse cycle airconditioning for the house. When used as a heater, you put your 2kW worth of electrical power into it, and you get about 10kW worth of heating out of it. All courtesy of the remarkable ability of heat to want to flow downhill all the time.

Can I have this in laymans terms? Or.. more layman?

Would this actually work as a net positive?

Assuming the scenario where you're belting the car around a racetrack for 30 minute sessions, with the AC compressor on the entire time... assuming as well that it is geared to not overdrive itself at a hypothetical 7000rpm.

Would there be a power gain by having a 1C IAT instead of say 25C, and would it offset the parasitic loss from driving the AC compressor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...