Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

40 minutes ago, admS15 said:

f**k man, you have a real sickness. Et streets on 16's or even 15's will grip much betterer. Need that side wall big profile energy. Not sure if will look more or less bogan though.

I'm going 17" because I want to have matching rims, and 17" was the smallest size the FR1's come in, so comprises were made for the Bogan-ness of the FR1 life, it isn't optimal, but meh, it's going to be good enough for what I want

My old GTS-t Skyline made similar top end power to the Commodore, and got a 11.09 on ancient worn out 255/50 16 Mickey Thompson streets, and they hooked pretty good on the street in the dry as well, which is handy with a RWD car

Plus the Mrs will never pick the change, which is always a bonus

As for looking more or less bogan, impossible, the car is a old red commodore with gold FR1 Simmons, and I'm a old balding white guy with tattoos, so  I'm pretty sure I got bogan covered, much to my Mrs anguish

  • Haha 2

I has rubbers, build date was 0822, fresh stock, which is nice

Ordered the rims, they're getting machined for offset, I pick them up and get the tyres fitted tomorrow

Typically it has started to rain again so Wednesday night drags probably isn't on the cards

20221101_155010.thumb.jpg.83732098f5c7ba8b8b6c778c531c34cd.jpg 

  • Like 2

Almost the ultimate bogan chariot but needs 2 doors for that title.
Get onto a suspension shop about a decent rear setup. That tyre can work with the right setup.
4l80 or 6l80 an option for you? t400 is getting hard to find now and decent internals
https://www.facebook.com/BrinksPerformance/posts/624930669420914

18 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Almost the ultimate bogan chariot but needs 2 doors for that title.
Get onto a suspension shop about a decent rear setup. That tyre can work with the right setup.
4l80 or 6l80 an option for you? t400 is getting hard to find now and decent internals
https://www.facebook.com/BrinksPerformance/posts/624930669420914

My current suspension will do for the 2 or 3 trips to the drags I do a year, the car is just a street cruiser with visions of grandeur 

My old R33 only ever ran Bilsteins and kings and hooked OK on the Mickeys

As for the gearbox, there's a few options, but really, unless/until the 4l60e goes bang in a big way there's no hurry

Currently the trans is rated/guaranteed to 600hp at the motor, which it is roughly at now, Craigs have stated that it will still be fine though as they add in a fudge factor, they said it should be good for about 700hp, or 450kwatw but, that would void warranty and be on limited time

Fark, I keep blowing the main 60 amp fusible link 

No reds at all, I just parked the car after returning from a drive, then tried to move it to wash off some dirt and nothing, no power at the ignition, no reds, no horn, no central locking,  no immobiliser, found the main 60 amp fusible link blown, so replaced it with the 60 amp ABS one to see what was going on, which brought the reds up, until I tried to start it, which then blew that fuse as well 😒

There's a short somewhere, I'll  need to jack up the car and look for the short, I'm hoping it's an easy "starter motor wiring meets exhaust headers" type of thing

Stupid cars 🚗 😒 🙄 😑 😤 😐 🤣

  • Sad 1

That sucks, I guess she doesn't want you to put those new tyres on her

FWIW, it won't be the starter motor via a 60A fuse, way too small, but headers (and anything else you've modified, which is almost everything now :p) would be the place to start.

Multimeter in the Fuse socket will probably confirm continuity to ground, and one option is to disconnect battery +, put 60A fuse back in and then check the regular fuses one by one to narrow down which specific circuit has the issue (I'm assuming the 60A fuse is in serial with the individual fuses like in sykline)

3 hours ago, Duncan said:

Multimeter in the Fuse socket will probably confirm continuity to ground, and one option is to disconnect battery +, put 60A fuse back in and then check the regular fuses one by one to narrow down which specific circuit has the issue (I'm assuming the 60A fuse is in serial with the individual fuses like in sykline)

Yeah, but if it's enough current to pop the 60A fuse, it really shouldn't blow one of the smaller fuses downstream. I would presume that there's a significant short in the wiring between the 60A fuse and any other fuses downstream. Melted insulation is the obvious thing to look for.

But yes, pulling any and all downstream fuses, then probing in the 60A fuse socket looking for earth would be the best way to start. Hot tip - there shouldn't be a nice path to earth there!

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

It never ends

But it is expected with old or modified stuff 

And it's not like it spends it's time in a garage coming out on sunny Sundays, the car is regularly used and abused, rain, hail or shine...well, rain and shine, I always keep an eye on the BOM for work, the car and bike is typically hidden away during major storms

I expect things to happen, nothing lasts forever,  and shit breaks when you lean on them, but, I'm happy enough because the old girl gives alot of joy, the car is fun as well..............😜

As for the new starter, I've still got some heat sheild left over from the job I did on the headers, I might look at making a cover like this thing > DCI-XT-5000-STR.thumb.jpg.836ec6b8b1a907e4a6410811e19de383.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...