Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G’morning my skyline R33 turbo,manual won’t start when cold. It will fire eventually but won’t continue to run.Starts first time when hot.I have changed spark plugs & coils. Any information would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Robbert.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480108-skyline-cold-start-problems/
Share on other sites

Do you have a strong battery with good connections? Another possibility is the temp sensor for the ecu. It is the one with two terminals ..the one with a single terminal is for your dash gauge. Unplug the ecu terminal and if the car starts better then that one needs to be replaced.

8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Do you have a strong battery with good connections? Another possibility is the temp sensor for the ecu. It is the one with two terminals ..the one with a single terminal is for your dash gauge. Unplug the ecu terminal and if the car starts better then that one needs to be replaced.

 

47 minutes ago, Nortyone said:

Yes brand new battery and terminals clean as a whistle. Could you please give me more info where ECU is .thx.

 

47 minutes ago, Nortyone said:

Yes brand new battery and terminals clean as a whistle. Could you please give me more info where ECU is .thx.

ECU is in the LHS kick panel but you don't need to access it - disconnect the sensor at the sensor: follow the top hose to the block and you will find two sensors - just pull the plug off the one with two wires.

  • 4 weeks later...
20 hours ago, GDZ32 said:

Is the car on E85? common problem with E85 cars. Just keep cranking lol

Common with a lazy tuner :)

Mine starts in any temperature 1st go, and idles fine.. just doesn't drive very well for the 1st minute haha

25 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Mine starts in any temperature 1st go, and idles fine

Out of interest, how often do you start / drive it? Does it sit for weeks/months, then still start first go?

Have an R33 GTST track car with lots of mods, including E85. It starts fine when cold if it's run regularly, but if it sits for a while (> a month) it's very hard to start - crank until battery goes flat, recharge & try again....

31 minutes ago, GeeDog said:

Out of interest, how often do you start / drive it? Does it sit for weeks/months, then still start first go?

Have an R33 GTST track car with lots of mods, including E85. It starts fine when cold if it's run regularly, but if it sits for a while (> a month) it's very hard to start - crank until battery goes flat, recharge & try again....

Probably once every 2 weeks and yes it just sits around in my back yard. Last time I drove it was at the Sparesbox skid pan (performed terribly, never take a track car to a skid pan, it doesn't skid very well)

E85 is fun, there's a fine line between wetting the plugs and not starting and not enough cranking fuel to get it started. Then there's all the other dimensions of intake air temp, ethanol concentration, etc. I find adding a good amount to the initial prime table makes all the difference. Happy to send you my kebabtech tune file for R&D if you like.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...