Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello guys! I have r34 sedan wich came with rb20de in it. I swaped my engine and now I have est 300 hp .Unfortunetly I am stuck with stock open diff. Can anybody suggest wich cars locked diff will fit because I can't find parts in my area. I was only able to find one seller wich has this diff he doesn't know from wich car did this diff came from. It just says viscous lsd and and ratio 3.69 . If anybody can help to check will this diff fit my vehicle would be appreciated.

1582877199406_default.jpeg

1582877199728_default.jpeg

1582877200931_default.jpeg

1582877201510_default.jpeg

1582877202458_default.jpeg

1582877203015_default.jpeg

1582877203691_default.jpeg

1582877205448_default.jpeg

1582877206364_default.jpeg

1582877207038_default.jpeg

1582877208210_default.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480158-r34-swap-sedan-diff/
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

So your diff is the top pics and the new one you wish to buy is the bottom pics??

Yeah it should go straight in no problems.

Thank you for your answer your right . Can you please suggest are there other model nissan diff s that can fit

Have a look on the plate on your firewall and it will give the stock diff ratio for your car which I believe is 4.3 ...so  3.69 will be a lot taller - probably more than you want. 

A viscous diff will not be much different from an open diff especially if it is old. To make a worthwhile change you need a mechanical LSD (I presume you don't really want a "locked" or welded diff).

Whereabouts do you live? You may need to search further afield to get a suitable diff.

  • Like 1
10 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Have a look on the plate on your firewall and it will give the stock diff ratio for your car which I believe is 4.3 ...so  3.69 will be a lot taller - probably more than you want. 

A viscous diff will not be much different from an open diff especially if it is old. To make a worthwhile change you need a mechanical LSD (I presume you don't really want a "locked" or welded diff).

Whereabouts do you live? You may need to search further afield to get a suitable diff.

Thank you for your answer. Yes the ratio is 4.3. My mistake by saying locked diff I meant LSD. I live in europe under Russia. My country is called Georgia.

georgia-location-map.thumb.jpg.5d52d92c359605a871358414910409c1.jpg

42 minutes ago, NOSTRADAMUSSS said:

It is pretty old

Um, they're all pretty old.

 

The first diff you pictured is not even from a Skyline. It is probably not even an R200. If it has 6 bolt (not 5 bolt as previously described) flanges AND is viscous, then it is more than likely out of a Z32, and could be an R230.

It's just the wrong diff everywhere.

 

The Laurel diff you show looks to be near perfect - so long as it is an LSD. Do not consider one out of an S chassis - there will be things that you can't handle - the ratio will be very wrong, the stub axles will be wrong and you won't be able to swap them between a VLSD and an open diff (as they are not the same lengths).

 

And lastly - you asked for a "locked diff". What do you mean? Just any old LSD? Must be mechanical LSD? The reason I ask is that VLSDs are weak. They barely offer any LSD action when they are old and when presented with a lot of power. Not that 300HP is a lot of power, but I got rid of my VLSD at that power level because it would just open up under load.

20 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And lastly - you asked for a "locked diff". What do you mean? Just any old LSD? Must be mechanical LSD? The reason I ask is that VLSDs are weak. They barely offer any LSD action when they are old and when presented with a lot of power. Not that 300HP is a lot of power, but I got rid of my VLSD at that power level because it would just open up under load.

So to be exact this car is my daily driver. I dont want to weld diff. Because I want to keep it comfortable and safe on high speed turns and etc . . All I want is to make 2 wheels speen while trying to drift. So you suggest that there is no point in investing in old VLSD right? I am really confused, than what will be solution in this situation.

Edited by NOSTRADAMUSSS

My first tip is don't drift your daily.

My second tip, is, if you want to drift, then you need a 2-way mechanical LSD. A VLSD is a form of AIDS that you do not need or want.

You can buy a Nismo (or other brand) mech centre to put into your existing diff housing using the existing CW&P.

  • Like 1

Yep. Nismo diff is the answer here. The N/A R34 GTT has the same "stuff" as a S15, or at least a S15 helical bolts into a R34 N/A perfectly.

Luckily, a lot of people drift S15's so options are plentiful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...