diy DIY: Hicas ball joint removal & replacement / Gktech hicas lock bar install.

[dyl33]

DIY:

Hicas ball joint removal & replacement / Gktech lock bar install.

 

Job:

Replace worn out hicas ball joints, without removing hubs.

Fit hicas lock bar.

 

Parts needed:
Gktech lock bar
2x Hicas ball joints

 

Tools needed:

Jack, Jack stands, WD40, Grease, Impact wrench, Adjustable wrench, Socket set 10-30mm, Circlip pliers, Pliers, Ball joint press kit, 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm Steel pipe, Pitman arm tool, Angle grinder, Breaker bar, Safety glasses, Hearing protection, Mask.

 

Duration:

3-6hrs.

Difficulty:

Medium - Easy with the right tools.

 

 

Step 1:

Remove rear seat, remove battery earth and remove suspension.

Then carefully jack up the car and use jack stands.

 

 

 

Step 2.

Spray wd-40 on the bolts, remove split pin and 17mm nut from ball joint/tie rod end.

 

 

 

Step 3.

Use pitman arm tool or suitable tool to remove tie rod end.

 

 

 

Step 4.

 

Crack the tie rods from the hicas unit under the rubber boot, unplug the hicas wiring.

 

 

 

Step 5.

Remove the 19mm bolts holding the hicas unit to the car and then remove the tie rods.

 

 

 

Step 6.

Install the tie rods into the gktech lock bar leaving the rubber boots loose. 

 

 

 

Set that aside for now. 

 

 

BALL JOINT REMOVAL.

 

 

 

Step 7.

 

Remove circlip from back of ball joint.

 

 

 

Step 8.

Cut the ball joint stud to allow more space to remove.

 

 

 

Step 9.

If you haven't removed suspension do it now.

Use the ball joint press tool to press the joint out.

Most kits don't come with a small enough size pipe to allow for extraction of the joint, so you will have to find a steel pipe of 42mm O.D. x 37mm I.D. x 60mm. Very common pipe size fits perfectly.

 

Carefully align your press tool with the pipe on the hub. I used 5mm steel plate as a backing plate and then used the correct size socket to sit flush on the back of the ball joint. This will allow you to push the ball joint through the hub towards the rear. 

 

 

Step 10.
 

With the ball joint removed, clean the ball joint housing with wd40 and a rag.

 

Step 11.

Apply grease to the joint and housing.

 

Step 12.

Use a 30mm socket or similar sized pipe that fits over the rubber boot and sits on the metal rim of the joint to press the new joint in.

Align the press tool with the socket and ball joints rim and start to turn the press tool to insert the joint into the hub.

Joint installed.

 

Step 13.

Reinstall the circlip to the back of the ball joint.

 

Step 14.

Cable tie the hicas wiring out of the way.

Install the gktech lock bar.

Tighten the 19mm bolts. Check the tie rods are tight, then secure the rubber boots.

 

Step 15.

Install the tie rod ends and replace the 17mm nut and split pin.

 

Step 16.

Reinstall suspension, rear seat and wheels.

Remove hicas bulb on the cluster, or cut hicas warning light wire on hicas cu in boot.

Get wheel alignment.


All Done.

Edited May 8, 2020 by dyl33

[GTSBoy]

Mental notes;

1. The above is valid for electric HICAS, like 33 & 34. Not same same for hydraulic 32 HICAS.
2. I shudder when I see chassis stands under the rear end of the chassis rails. It's too far forward for a stable support and it puts a lot of leverage from the mass of the rear of the car on the contact points and drives dents into the chassis rails. I prefer to locate them carefully under the subframe.
3. ...
4. Otherwise. Good.

[dyl33]

6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Mental notes;

1. The above is valid for electric HICAS, like 33 & 34. Not same same for hydraulic 32 HICAS.
2. I shudder when I see chassis stands under the rear end of the chassis rails. It's too far forward for a stable support and it puts a lot of leverage from the mass of the rear of the car on the contact points and drives dents into the chassis rails. I prefer to locate them carefully under the subframe.
3. ...
4. Otherwise. Good.

1. Correct.

2. I'll take note. There is 4 stands under it, the blue 2 are on the subframe. 

3. ...

4 .?

[Jarsky]

I wasted so much money on the Frenchy's Performance Garage tool. I'm sure it's great if your balljoints are in good condition, but I ended up stripping the coupler nut, and bending the threads on the balljoint trying to use their removal tool. 

I basically ended up doing the exact same thing as this guide to remove mine, and they came out like butter.

I used a torch to heat the knuckle up for around 60 seconds, and I used my 36mm axle nut socket as the retainer. I then used a thick washer on the back first, before putting a 14mm socket on the back to push it the rest of the way. This process took about 15-20 minutes per side, compared to the hours I spent trying different methods. Using the 36mm socket it has the dpeth that you don't need to grind the end of the balljoint off either. 

Edited May 22, 2020 by Jarsky

[Bart Japan]

Does anyone know how to do a 32? Do you get a fitting that recirculates the HICAS?

[dyl33]

1 hour ago, Bart Japan said:

Does anyone know how to do a 32? Do you get a fitting that recirculates the HICAS?

 

[jmknights93]

I must've been lucky with my 32. I was able to remove my ball joints using a pitman arm tool on both sides. Pretty neat guide though, should help a fair few guys.

[jmknights93]

1 hour ago, Bart Japan said:

Does anyone know how to do a 32? Do you get a fitting that recirculates the HICAS?

If you don't want to remove the lines, I'm selling this spare kit.