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Rb25det solid lifter adjust periods

John iatrides
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John iatrides Apprentice

John iatrides

Posted
Posted

Hello, everyone I'm looking to convert my rb25det s2 into solid lifter setup just wondering how miles I can go before they need adjustment. I plan on daily driving, street racing, and drag racing is there anyone on here with first hand experience with the rb25det solid lifter conversion not looking for opinions real experience only thanks.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480585-rb25det-solid-lifter-adjust-periods/
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admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted
56 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I only have opinions. Because I know what I'm talking about. But seeing as you don't want them, I'm not going to answer.

 

Damn, how else am i going to find out about these things without actually asking..?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

No, you made it fairly clear that you only wanted first hand experience with converted solid lifters.

Typically, you never need to adjust the clearances on solid lifters on any factory Japanese engine. They don't wear. Japanese camshafts don't wear*. Japanese lifters/followers/buckets don't wear.*

 

*unless the engine is owned/operated by a moron and not serviced.

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John iatrides Apprentice

John iatrides

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info! yah should of changed the wording. I just got a reply from raw brokerage they said the same thing solid lifters rarely need adjusted if set correctly. Just wanted to know before I build my head with solid lifter conversion but they also stated that supertech and tomei run different shim styles and there not compatible with each other. So I'll be looking into that more. I wouldn't of converted to solid lifter if I had to adjust them ever 4k miles that's doesn't sound very fun that's why I asked before I dropped a few thousand into the head. Thanks again if u have any other info on this conversation please give me some insight. ?

John iatrides Apprentice

John iatrides

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why not convert to solid? Hydraulic replacements cost about the same and I'll get better reliability and no worries about valve floating. I plan on ramping up the power more as I get comfortable with it so I will need the extra rev range when I upgrade turbos. also I won't have to replace parts and I'll know that a lifter isn't gonna drop. More power more torque if it starts ticking all I got to do is drop some shims in it's just a win win and I don't plan on revving it to 9k-10k probably won't need to 8.5k is what I'll probably have the cut set should be with in my power band my tuner says he can probably keep it under 8k. Spend money now save money and headaches later. I had some lifter tick before I pulled the motor my fuel cut was set to 7.8k. why is there so many haters on the forum?

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, John iatrides said:

Why not convert to solid? Hydraulic replacements cost about the same and I'll get better reliability and no worries about valve floating. I plan on ramping up the power more as I get comfortable with it so I will need the extra rev range when I upgrade turbos. also I won't have to replace parts and I'll know that a lifter isn't gonna drop. More power more torque if it starts ticking all I got to do is drop some shims in it's just a win win and I don't plan on revving it to 9k-10k probably won't need to 8.5k is what I'll probably have the cut set should be with in my power band my tuner says he can probably keep it under 8k. Spend money now save money and headaches later. I had some lifter tick before I pulled the motor my fuel cut was set to 7.8k. why is there so many haters on the forum?

I wouldn't call them 'haters' - the situation is we have had these cars/motors for many many many years now, I'll throw in another many for good measure. These ideas that were thrown around 15 years ago like, changing my head to solid lifters and bolting a turbo on my non-turbo skyline have been discussed to death and there is a reason that so few people do it. 

The cost of taking a head with hydraulic lifters and making it solid is not 'about the same' as servicing a hydraulic head. 

Have a look at the Supertech Solid Lifter Head Conversion Kit, it's got 168 pieces in the kit. Then you've got the associated machining and labor costs. 

Looking at a recent invoice from my machine shop, the cost to refresh my hydraulic head was $500 (AUD). Let me know what your solid lifter conversion is going to cost you including, parts, labor and machine work. 

Don't take this as me saying don't do it. It's your car, your money. Unless you and rolling in cash though, there may be other things you could spend it on that give you a better return. 

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John iatrides Apprentice

John iatrides

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Yes, it's going to cost money and also be reliable and I am building the block to hold 1,000hp. Don't like the hydraulic lifters solid is the way to go for me the benefits I will receive more power, more torque and adjustable rev range so why not dump the hydraulics? I'm not sure why anyone would wanna replace dropped lifters all the time with a hydraulic setup I doesn't sound like a good time to me. 

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, John iatrides said:

Yes, it's going to cost money and also be reliable and I am building the block to hold 1,000hp. Don't like the hydraulic lifters solid is the way to go for me the benefits I will receive more power, more torque and adjustable rev range so why not dump the hydraulics? I'm not sure why anyone would wanna replace dropped lifters all the time with a hydraulic setup I doesn't sound like a good time to me. 

Love it, chasing 1000hp. Please post up a build thread. 

When you say it's going to 'be reliable' as part of your regular service maintenance, will it include things like an annual strip down of the motor and refresh? (provided the motor lasts a full year that is)

You are in America right?

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Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Do it. 1000hp daily driver build is money no object kind of stuff.

 

What about drive train? Clutch?

 

Can't believe you are even considering valve clearance intervals when talking 1000hp. You can check clearances in 30 minutes.so much other shit is going to cause issues.

 

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