Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Faulty boot release.-

Hi all, 

I'm in the uk and thought i would try you boys in Australia for some help as my 2004 skyline 350gt is a rare car here in the uk.- 

My boot release.- doesn't work by using the remote or switch on the dash

'I'm been thought my G35 disc and the Haynes manual and have worked out the Body Control unit sends a positive fed to boot lock to unlock. Also the dash release switch connects to earth and when pressed sends negative to the BCU to tell it to open boot. When i press the boot release on the remote i can hear a click from steering wheel area so i know it's receiving the signal ok.

My problem is the G35 isn't the same then it comes to wiring colours/position of pins in plugs and the boot release isn't in Haynes. I've rechecked all cables which fed into the boot ( i replaced every cable last year) and all fine. I have checked every wire one by one which connects to the BCU for the positive unlock boot fed when i press the remote and dash switches and nothing! I have also checked every wire for a negative fed from dash switch and again nothing.

So i thinking the BCU is faulty!

Any one have correct wiring details for a import? Any other ideas?

Thanks

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480761-boot-release-problems/
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, 57jam said:

Oh shit, how are you going to get in the boot!

 

Fingers crossed we get some replys.

Tell me about it, not good, I was thinking about wot u said n wen u said u run a positive from Battery to the lock it works, so my question is how do I do that ? "Run a positive" wots that, wot to use ? N where about on the lock do u attach it ? 

I didn't no u could do that but I'll give it a go that's for sure, if u can help me 57jam of cause.

Eager to hear back from u cheers brother.

It's basic electrics, so any auto electrician whose workshop doesn't look like a barnyard will be fine, I'm sure. Definitely the safest thing to do because if you don't understand low voltage electrics at a basic level, you could end up doing way more damage than just a snapped steel release cable.

There's no dark art to these things. It's button, solenoid, wiring or BCM. In 57jam's case, he seems to have ruled out wiring, buttons and solenoid. That's not a promising sign from a cost point of view.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...