Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed.

Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19.

Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19.

Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed.

Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19.

Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19.

Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

Yep, ok got it now! Took me a while 😵‍💫

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE.
IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.

BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT.


This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

  • Thanks 1

Is there a better way to do this? If people have figured out how to modify the odometer on the cluster module surely it must also be possible to figure out how to recalibrate how it correlates output shaft speed on the transmission to speed/distance.

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE.
IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.

BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT.


This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

Noted and taken on board!

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there a better way to do this? If people have figured out how to modify the odometer on the cluster module surely it must also be possible to figure out how to recalibrate how it correlates output shaft speed on the transmission to speed/distance.

I've been told that the R33 GTR speedo sensor will fit into the Getrag, but you just need to modify the adaptor plug to suit the 34. But in saying this, i've also been told the speedo is still out by 3-5%

Edited by djvoodoo
1 hour ago, djvoodoo said:

I've been told that the R33 GTR speedo sensor will fit into the Getrag, but you just need to modify the adaptor plug to suit the 34. But in saying this, i've also been told the speedo is still out by 3-5%

I was thinking more about modifying the ROM or circuitry on the gauge cluster instead. 

I'd forgotten that Greg had had a bad time with the Jaycar box - I just presumed that it worked.

4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there a better way to do this?

Yes. The answer would be a fairly simple Arduino project. Just need some math to read the frequency of the incoming and generate a new sawtooth wave with the adjusted frequency. Probably wouldn't even have to be that clever to get it done. I imagine that there's lots of example code you could steal, and it wouldn't matter how cludgy or inefficient it was.

  • 3 months later...
On 9/8/2020 at 2:31 PM, tommytomatoes said:

Speedo is now operational. Correct wiring is #19 input and ground out the other wire. I put the ground on the crash bar vertical support to the right of the stereo.

Appreciate the help gtsboy! 

How exactly did you do this? I have a r34 25gt converted to manual. Auto speedometer was working fine. Swapped for a Nismo GTT meter and now speed gauge won’t read. Would you happen to know how I can get the speed gauge to work? 

On 1/28/2024 at 12:34 PM, Skylineran21 said:

How exactly did you do this? I have a r34 25gt converted to manual. Auto speedometer was working fine. Swapped for a Nismo GTT meter and now speed gauge won’t read. Would you happen to know how I can get the speed gauge to work? 

The mtx/atx pinouts are different for the connector to the cluster. Also your automatic car has a sensor at the diff to read speed while the manual cluster uses the speed sensor on the manual transmission. I bought the mtx speed sensor connector, plugged in it and ran the wires into the car, grounded one out on the crash bar [any ground is good] and the other I put in pinout # 19. It should now work.

 

Edit: you can find the pinout numbers in the R34 workshop manual on page EL19. If you don't have it, shoot me your email and Ill send the manual to you.

Edited by tommytomatoes
On 1/30/2024 at 2:43 PM, tommytomatoes said:

The mtx/atx pinouts are different for the connector to the cluster. Also your automatic car has a sensor at the diff to read speed while the manual cluster uses the speed sensor on the manual transmission. I bought the mtx speed sensor connector, plugged in it and ran the wires into the car, grounded one out on the crash bar [any ground is good] and the other I put in pinout # 19. It should now work.

 

Edit: you can find the pinout numbers in the R34 workshop manual on page EL19. If you don't have it, shoot me your email and Ill send the manual to you.

Thank you soo much!! I did forget to mention that the car was converted to manual before I purchased it. So I’ll take a look at the diff for that extra sensor just in case. Ahhh I see now.  I’ve looked at the manual and found pin 19!  So to be 100% clear, I wire directly to pin 19 and not just tap into the existing wire?  

47 minutes ago, Skylineran21 said:

Thank you soo much!! I did forget to mention that the car was converted to manual before I purchased it. So I’ll take a look at the diff for that extra sensor just in case. Ahhh I see now.  I’ve looked at the manual and found pin 19!  So to be 100% clear, I wire directly to pin 19 and not just tap into the existing wire?  

Its been 3 years since I did it, cant remember if there was a wire there or not. If there is, snip it from the current harness and run new wire from transmission speed sensor connector to it. Good luck.

1 hour ago, tommytomatoes said:

Its been 3 years since I did it, cant remember if there was a wire there or not. If there is, snip it from the current harness and run new wire from transmission speed sensor connector to it. Good luck.

Thank you!!! I’ll keep you updated on the results! 🙏🏼

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...