Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys, me again with the non running vq25det stagea, starting to nail down on components trying to diagnose my issue and noticed something while removing and cleaning my crank sensor

i noticed metal fragments on the magnetic part of the sensor, so i cleaned then off, refitted the sensor and tried to give it a strart, and i noticed for the first time in a while it fired and tried to start on the first try, but on the second and third there was no fire, so i took out the sensor again, cleaned it again and same thing, fired first try, still no start, but on second and thirrd try its again not firing

so my question is, could my sensor be faulty? what else could be causing this?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481149-m35-stagea-crank-but-no-start/
Share on other sites

Its usually crank or cam sensors.

Google instructions on how to pull fault codes from the ecu and it should pinpoint which sensor it is. There's a dance you do with the acc pedal and ignition key. Best to use a stopwatch when trying to do it. All info is available on this site via Google.

  • Like 1

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

35 minutes ago, Gibbsygoodness said:

@admS15 thankyou very much, i have just done that and came back with a code of 0115, which is 'Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction" everything i see says that wont stop the car from starting though, it will just run rough until it warms up? i have tried to erase the code using the mentioned method on the forum, and that has not worked (yet).. none the less, thankyou very much for the tip! i shall keep trying to diagnose the issue, or call lube or something

Try unplugging the coolant temp sensor and then try starting

@admS15 thanks again, and i hate to be that guy, but do you know where i could find the sensor? i believe its near the thermostat but i cant seem to find anything besides what seems to be a broken plug, which could be both what im looking for and my issue

There's a pipe at the rear of the engine that connects the two banks, the coolant sensor is in that. It could also be the wiring that goes to the sensor, that should be inspected. Here is a diagram with the location highlighted.

1567665588862_big.png

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey @admS15, thanks for that tip, was a pain to remove but i got it, now here's what happened.

after removing just the plug from the sensor, it started almost no hesitation a ran rather fine besides a slight miss, so i took the sensor out and down to sprint auto, grabbed a new one as they're rather cheap, i was supplied with a cts-031 which seems to be correct and once i fitted it, it did start and run for a while but cut out after a few minutes and it looked like the temp gauge wasn't working either, but once again it continued to not start after that, i again removed the plug from the sensor and it started again but ran rough.. not quite sure where to go from here, the opinion from my group is spark plugs and coil packs but again i just really don't know

Man, im out of ideas. Have you checked the wiring loom going to the sensor. Your original code was relating to coolant temp circuit. The new sensor you got may not be 100% compatible either. I like to use genuine Nissan stuff for troubleshooting. You could go to a wreckers yard and try match up a sensor out of another Nissan like a Maxima or pulsar etc. 

Would be good to check what the actual sensor is reading. A scan tool that can read m35's will required (consult or snap on). There is a phone app that works via Bluetooth obd adaptor (elm 327) called hobdrive. The demo version should enable you to see what the temp is doing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...