Jump to content
SAU Community

Need some info before I buy.

GinD18

By GinD18,
in Introduce yourself

 Share

Recommended Posts

GinD18 Newbie

GinD18

Posted
Posted

Hello from New Jersey! I'm looking to buy a 1992 Nissan skyline GTS-T Type M, i would like to know what i should look for before buying this car. there is a personal seller who is selling this car, and I am very interested in buying but I don't know what kind of maintenance I'll have to do to the car and if the car needs any kind of maintenance (if it hasn't already been done prior to selling) after I buy it. So I'm looking for any kind of information that you guys might have. im mainly looking for a maintenance schedule info for the car, as the car already has 85K miles on it. i'd like to know what i should prepare for, for future maintenance and what i should ask regarding prior maintenance. i plan on using this car for daily driving and use.

skyline.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481362-need-some-info-before-i-buy/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Firstly, it is ~30 years old, so it will not have 85k miles on it. It will be lucky if it is less than 185k miles.

Is it still the original RB20DET? If so, budget on an engine upgrade to something that can make it move. RB25DET Neo, VQ30DET, VH56DE, LS3. Anything.

If it is the original engine then everything rubber is suspect. Vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, intercooler connectors. Budget on replacing all those, plus the timing belt, water pump, front and rear seals.

The gearbox should be fine if it is not crunchy, but it will not tolerate significant upgrades in power for very long without wearing out the input shaft bearing. So if following advice to embiggen the motor, budget on adding a big box too. Ditto the brakes. Bigger motor = bigger brakes.

The suspension could be in any state at all. If all original, then most rubber bushes will be crook and need poly replacements or entire arm replacements (to obtain adjustability). The front upper control arms are shit on R32s and the only workable aftermarket substitute is by GK-Tech.

Those stays on the rear wing are stupid.

Otherwise, go for it. It is very similar to the car that I have owned for the last 20 years and have done the entire list of upgrades above, and more, to.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
PranK Grand Master

PranK

Posted
Posted

Welcome! 

I love R32 Gtst's being future proofed. @GTSBoy's post is awesome. Maintenance/Repair will be crucial and you need to do it before modifying as painful as that will seem. 

@GinD18create a thread in the relevant section if you have any q's, theres a lot of members who will be able to assist that way and your content helps others.

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...