Jump to content
SAU Community

First time Skyline R33 GTS-T Build

Jake Simkin

By Jake Simkin,
in Introduce yourself

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jake Simkin Newbie

Jake Simkin

Posted
Posted

Hi there everyone! It is a pleasure to be here. My brother passed away recently and never got to finish his 1996 Skyline R33 build so I decided to finish it to honour him and get it on the road. I am clean to get it onto the road and hopefully spec it up as I go along but would like to pass the road worthy and get it on the road. I am wondering do I have to present it stock or can I put on a body kit. If I can do a body kit, I am looking for front bar that not too low to ground so I don't trash it on the speed bumps Melbourne has up. Also maybe a side skirt? I am new to building up cars but I know a few things about doing up bikes. My brother had extra gauges as well, do I need to remove them as well?

I picked up some new tyres and got them on. Ordered a new fuel OEM fuel pump but waiting on it and mail taking forever. I would like to get some aftermarket headlights and maybe some nifty back light but should I do them after roadworthy?

Friends said they would help me do a spray job as long as I did some of the legwork in prepping it. I am thinking black with red liones. My bro was always a bit of a Michael Jordan fan so black and red Chicago Bulls colour seemed appropriate.

Anyway i would love your suggestions where I could go on the Skyline. In the end I probably be not racing it but I would like it to good with cool features.

Anyway hit me for suggestions or say hi, I am looking to hopefully learn a lot about working on this car. And once again, thanks for letting me join.

The car even got a SAU sticker already on it though some of it is peeling though I want to get some new ones on there!

I am also looking for the original gear knob as I have a Nismo long gear knob. Also interested in doing some new hoses in red. Just picked up some Mishimoto radiator hoses in red. 

I am in Melbourne and currently building the car in Laverton.

 

in regards Jake

 

121269838_10157206292407016_70124670515019376_n.jpg

121453307_10157206292382016_7161037515360858599_n.jpg

121716809_10157206292487016_3323384362962414064_n.jpg

DSC01092 2.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481408-first-time-skyline-r33-gts-t-build/
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Hey Jake,

Sorry for your loss.

Your Skyline looks like a good base car to start on.

First thing I'd do is wash and detail the hell out of it.

This will give you an idea of the overall condition and may well give you a better path for what needs to be fixed first.

If you can put some front end and interior pics as well SAU members can see really whats going on and voice further opinions.

For a start type M side skirts will beef up the sides and even possibly cover up that ding on the back left side.

That looks like a type S front bar, and may even be a series 1 front, but its a bit hard to see from the pic so changing it out with a factory type M front bar will do wonders for the look of it.

PranK Grand Master

PranK

Posted
Posted

Hey Jake and welcome to :sau:

I'm sorry for your loss but happy for your motivation to take on this project. 

do you want me to move this topic into the build threads section? You might get a few extra followers in there.

 

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Sweet project 

I would go red base with black

Reasoning is black paint is hard to get good

Anyways, good luck with your project, I'm sure you bro would be happy just knowing your giving the car some love

Main thing is to get that puppy serviced, running well and rego'ed

Enjoy

red-nissan-gtr-black-edition-r35-5-spoke-lightweight-adv1-wheels-3-piece-rims-a-970x661.jpg

images.jpeg-2.jpg

maddy400r33 Enthusiast

maddy400r33

Posted
Posted

What a honour for you to honour your brother, to keep his spirit alive. You look to have a great base to continue your brothers dream. 

Have you considered a wrap, meaning you could go more into the MJ theme with graphics, even a half wrap, this will expose the car as well, front half white, half wrap on sides and back. 

Enjoy working on it, the goal is in the process

  • Like 1
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

welcome.

im sure no matter what you do, your brother would appreciate it.

as above, black isnt just hard to get right, its also hard to maintain. 

red could be cool, or just leave it white with red and black accents throughout.

not sure about Vic, but in NSW, its much easier to get a standard car passed than any mods.

just take it slow and see if your feelings change. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...