Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My goal for this year was to have a built 2.6 with HKS Vcam step 2, but working in the defense/aerospace industry we've been hit hard this year which has me holding off on a build.  I still want to do the HKS Vcam step 1 since it will work with stock internals and give's me a good opportunity to bundle it up with Dr-25 on a custom harness I'm making. Ultimately I would like to upgrade to Step 2/pro when I do build the motor, but paying $1k  for an upgrade kit sucks. The kit includes new Variable unit, 264 8.7 cam, and new valve cover gasket. 

So after some research online I found (thanks Piggaz) that HKS' step 1 variable sprocket unit has a mechanical wedge which limits it to 30°, so if removed gives you the full Step 2 / Pro 52° (??) Has anyone been able to confirm removing the wedge functions exactly like a step 2 / pro unit?

My next question is camshaft.. Yes you can regrind it, but what about a new camshaft? Kellford Cams offers Rb25 cams to work with VCT unit, Rb26 cams, and can make custom camshafts... Can a new cam be made to work with V-cam?

Thank you,

Brian

wedge.JPG

Just leave the Step 1 as it'll work magic on a stock or built motor, or wait and get the HKS Step2 pistons and Vcam Step2 at the same time. My car has run Step1 Type-A Vcam on a HKS Step2 2.8 with -5's and then I upgraded to Vcam Step2, the gains are minimal, if none at all. I wouldn't be modifying anything when the motor gets built. 

You would need to confirm the lobe angle of the step 1 cam. The step 1 is only wedged on 1 side so you would think/assume the lobe angle would be different than a step 2 BUT I can’t confirm that as I have no measured it.

Rb25 and Vcam cam shafts have nothing in common. This is essentially an EJ25 system that has been shoehorned to make work on an RB26. 
You’d be better off asking for an EJ25 nose and grooves that has the lobes spaced to suit an RB26 with a profile of “x”. My bet is they won’t want anything to do with it. 🤣

The thread below has photo’s in it showing what I’m talking about.

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/vcam-step-1-and-stock-turbo.504185/

 

 

step 1 is a 248 degree 8.7mm camshaft with 30 degrees of advance (20 degrees locked out with steel block)

step 2 is a 264 degree 8.7mm camshaft with 50 degrees of advance.

you can use the actuator with the block removed to give the 50 degrees but you will need to purchase the step 2 camshaft or get your step 1 248 degree camshaft ground to a lower base circle and reground to a longer duration.

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

or get your step 1 248 degree camshaft ground to a lower base circle and reground to a longer duration.

Or, you just buy a new cam from Kelfords with similar specs? Probably better than butchering the original HKS cam.

Are you saying kelford have the correct blanks for the vcam?

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Or, you just buy a new cam from Kelfords with similar specs? Probably better than butchering the original HKS cam.

 

32 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I'd like to think that their cam blanks would have enough meat on them to put any reasonable profile on them.

Small issue though. The Kelford blank for an RB 26 won’t have all this stuff going for the Vcam to work. If it was as easy as regrinding a blank then it would be a piece of piss.

AF01EAEF-85D2-40DB-8E12-BD402EA3E2E4.jpeg

20 hours ago, burn4005 said:

step 1 is a 248 degree 8.7mm camshaft with 30 degrees of advance (20 degrees locked out with steel block)

step 2 is a 264 degree 8.7mm camshaft with 50 degrees of advance.

you can use the actuator with the block removed to give the 50 degrees but you will need to purchase the step 2 camshaft or get your step 1 248 degree camshaft ground to a lower base circle and reground to a longer duration.

Glad to hear. Now it's only the camshaft I need to worry about. HKS doesn't sell it separately, but would like to reground a 264 to begin with.  

On 11/14/2020 at 12:58 PM, brian_s30z said:

Glad to hear. Now it's only the camshaft I need to worry about. HKS doesn't sell it separately, but would like to reground a 264 to begin with.  

Yes they do

https://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-v-cam-system-version-up-camshaft.html

The actuator is actually a modified Subaru EJ unit.

Oil is fed through ports in the camshaft just in front of cylinder 1 lobes, there are internal passeges drilled that feed that oil to the actuator bolted to the front.

It's not simple but it is certainly possible.

The grub screws that stick out for the vvt sensor are just a threaded hole with a long grub screws and lock nuts.

I was just thinking about this and figured that the grub screws would have to have been possible to copy if you had access to an original HKS cam to see where they have to go. I was thinking of shrink fit steel rod/stake/plug. But grub screw + loctite is just as good.

Just copy the position on the old cam. It doesn't matter their phasing as long as they are spaced at 120 degrees and not near the cam home pulse timing wise.

Any new ecu that is capable of generic VVT would have no problems with it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Spoke with Kelford, they said:

"We do plan to release a Vcam replacement cam but we aren’t there yet, we still need to get our casting modified so we can machine the oil feed.     This will be sometime unfortunately"

Good news! ... My Vcam step 1 is on its way to me. 

Attached is closer picture of vcam camshaft.

vcam.JPG

1 hour ago, brian_s30z said:

Spoke with Kelford, they said:

"We do plan to release a Vcam replacement cam but we aren’t there yet, we still need to get our casting modified so we can machine the oil feed.     This will be sometime unfortunately"

Good news! ... My Vcam step 1 is on its way to me. 

Attached is closer picture of vcam camshaft.

vcam.JPG

That’s great news. About time someone pulled their finger out. Hopefully they have a few different grinds. 👍

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...