Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’ve got an 25GT R34 and I’m planning on engine swapping and manual converting it in due time as well as respraying, adding body kits and some other upgrades. Only problem is I’m not at all experienced in building or working on cars and am wondering where I should start and what engines/boxes I would be best to get my hands on. I know nismo heritage have started to manufacture RB26DETT’s again although they’re quite expensive for all the parts (block and head alone are 7.5k) . I’ve also heard 2JZ engines are super reliable and can produce a lot of power however are probably hard to get a hold of. Budget for this project is around 20k.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482160-planning-to-engine-swap-my-na-r34/
Share on other sites

20k is most definitely not enough of a budget for all that if you are paying people to do it

a 2jz gte long motor alone is 7k +

a good wrap can still cost over 4K 

you are also probably going to want better brakes from the turbo variant also 

11 minutes ago, Eamonnn said:

Ahh ok so maybe 30k is a more realistic budget ??

 

How fresh of an engine could I expect for a 7k 2JZ?

How long is a piece of string????

you are best off going to talk to tuning shops around you who are familiar with your options and ask exactly what is involved and what it will realistically cost you.

we can only speculate  here

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Said it before, will obviously have to say it again. An NA auto Skyline is a perfect candidate for a proper motor conversion. That would be an LS3 + TR6060.

12 hours ago, Eamonnn said:

Ahh ok thanks man. I’ll check it out 

And it would be certainly cheaper to just buy my already converted LS + TR56/6060/Magnum combination. 

So what's your budget? 😛

It is well worth stating that this is not a cost effective scenario. None of it is. If you want bang for buck you have the wrong platform and pretty much any other platform will get you where you want for less.

Have a very well defined goal before planning anything or spending a cent.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...