Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone, 

I'm currently looking at buying an R32 GTR V-Spec II and want to do some research on all GTR Engine Numbers but in particular late model R32 (1994). 

Can anyone help me confirm that RB26066570A was an engine fitted to late model R32 GTR or at least manufactured in or prior to 1994? 

If we can't do that then what year model and engine number is in your GTR (R32, R33, R34)? 

Cheers, 

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482346-rb26-gtr-engine-numbers/
Share on other sites

Engines would have been produced sequentially like the chassis, so low numbers probably = earlier.    Nissan FAST doesn't identify particular engine numbers with specific cars, so likely engines were installed as they were available/needed.    Some motorcycle manufacturers use(d) matching engine/frame numbers (I have a couple like that) but it doesn't seem to happen with mass production cars AFAIA, probably to simplify production.    Maybe with a Ferrari.    Anyway, if it helps my Sept '89 chassis number 1650 came (I believe) with the original engine 002910A.

Thanks SteveL, 

Aware of the majority of those things. My concern primarily is that I want the car as an investment / toy and my suspicion is that the engine number suggests that it's far later than the 1994 GTRs. If I'm going to lash out and spend $100k on a V-Spec I want to know that it has an engine that is from the right era. 

I've found that the R32 GTR V-Specs should have an engine number between RB26-042XXXX - RB26-045XXXX. I don't however believe everything I read on the interwebs so want to verify that this logic holds. (This logic is the same as yours SteveL)

(Reference: https://classicregister.com/id-guides/info-guide-1994-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-v-spec-ii)

From the segmented (potentially incorrect) information I've found that; 

Early R32: RB26000XXXX to RB26002XXXX 

Mid R32: RB26003XXXX (V-Spec I RB26-03XXXXX - Reference Classic Register)

Late R32: RB26004XXXX (V-Spec II RB26-042XXXX - RB26-045XXXX - Reference Classic Register)

Early R33: RB26005XXXX

Mid R33: RB26006XXXX (as per the engine in this R32 V-Spec II, which is what I'm concerned about from legitimacy perspective)

Late R33:  RB26007XXXX

Early R34 (2000+):  RB26008XXXX

 

The list above has been compiled from a bunch of different forum posts on engine numbers and hours of internet searching on my end. The production numbers and years etc seem to line up with the numbers I've documented above.

Note these are completely non-definitive and only based on forum posts and information I've gathered - I would like to verify this so I can make an informed decision!

 

Edited by nastylilweed
39 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

As opposed to every other GTR owner over the last 20 years who was looking to deliberately put a later RB26 in because they were better.

Yes exactly, however from an originality perspective and as an investment perspective it becomes a pretty big issue. Unfortunately there's a perception in the market that "matching" numbers cars are still highly preferable. Even if there was never a link between chassis / engine having an engine that was "period correct" is the equivalent. 

Edited by nastylilweed
32 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I don't subscribe to that bullshit. But if you want to, go right ahead.

I wish I didn't have to buy into it however it's naive to think that a collectible car with an engine from the wrong era will be worth as much as the same car with the right engine. Globally, that's just how investment cars work. 

Remember the context here. I've already got my toys, I'm looking for an awesome car that I can enjoy occasionally that will appreciate significantly over time. In order for me to spend that much on a car that won't see a lot of use it needs to appreciate over time. From an investment perspective why would I buy a car that I KNOW will perform poorly compared to an alternative?

It's the hard truth. I'm just here to do some research on a specific engine... 

16 hours ago, nastylilweed said:

I wish I didn't have to buy into it however it's naive to think that a collectible car with an engine from the wrong era will be worth as much as the same car with the right engine. Globally, that's just how investment cars work. 

Remember the context here. I've already got my toys, I'm looking for an awesome car that I can enjoy occasionally that will appreciate significantly over time. In order for me to spend that much on a car that won't see a lot of use it needs to appreciate over time. From an investment perspective why would I buy a car that I KNOW will perform poorly compared to an alternative?

It's the hard truth. I'm just here to do some research on a specific engine... 

So you're buying this as an investment ? If there is no concrete evidence how would you ever prove original motor authenticity to a potential buyer ?

Anyway for your information I can give you some numbers on our GTRs for further info:

10/1989 BNR32-002605, definitely original block was RB26003940A. Since replaced with new block RB26D090076P.

09/1990 BNR32-011875 : 99% sure original block RB26014217A.

02/1995 BCNR33-002155 : I'll bet my left nut original block as I bought this car completely standard and immaculte with 62000km on it over 18 years ago : RB26050092A.

Our latest edition 11/1989 BNR32-003217 with block RB26062552A. This car has been changed from KH2 to 326 and is the only one I'll guarantee has had another engine fitted before I got it.

I have to say suprisingly it does correspond so far with your above findings.

Thanks BK, 

Yes, would definitely be buying it as an "investment". It's a pretty loose term these days. I honestly believe the V-Spec IIs are going to be worth pretty big money one day. But I also want a car I can enjoy on a semi-regular basis as well so it's not all about money. However, for me to throw that kind of money at a car I need it to provide some kind of return. For me it's not so much that it's "the" original engine but definitely the correct engine series for the year of the model produced. 

Thanks heaps for putting the effort into such a detailed response. It definitely seems to line up with what I've found out and about in the world. 

What do you reckon the chances are of finding a RB26 block with RB260043 to RB260045 serial numbers as this is a genuine option. Enjoy the R33 engine that's in it and find and build a period correct RB with the right numbers to keep on the shelf... 

30 minutes ago, nastylilweed said:

What do you reckon the chances are of finding a RB26 block with RB260043 to RB260045 serial numbers

Slim to none I would think. I really wouldn't get too hung up on it as overall condition of car is way more important.

What happens when you crack your block (Which will happen at some point with an RB 🙂 ) Are you then going to try find another period correct block? Or buy a new one, Because you'd certainly be waiting a while for a 'period correct' block to show up in a for sale marketplace.

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

With Japanese cars the vin number and the body condition is where all the money is, the only people who get hung up on engine numbers are Americans 

 

26 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

What happens when you crack your block (Which will happen at some point with an RB 🙂 ) Are you then going to try find another period correct block? Or buy a new one, Because you'd certainly be waiting a while for a 'period correct' block to show up in a for sale marketplace.

Both of these things I agree with. However this is what makes an "original" car worth more than a non-original car. Unfortunately the precedent has been set that original engine and chassis is more valuable. In the market this is still the case whether there's a material difference or not. The fact that an original RB managed to survive for that long and remain in tact is a genuine value adding feature. 

As soon as a car stops becoming an enthusiast car and starts becoming an investment car these things have a huge influence on valuations. This is already the case with GTRs, check out the sale prices for original cars with full history and cars without or with modifications. There's already a 10-20% difference in the market.

It kind of is what it is, I'm still contemplating buying this car even if it's not the correct engine. It's more that I need to understand the difference in value now and in 10 years time. 

52 minutes ago, nastylilweed said:

 

Both of these things I agree with. However this is what makes an "original" car worth more than a non-original car. Unfortunately the precedent has been set that original engine and chassis is more valuable. In the market this is still the case whether there's a material difference or not. The fact that an original RB managed to survive for that long and remain in tact is a genuine value adding feature. 

As soon as a car stops becoming an enthusiast car and starts becoming an investment car these things have a huge influence on valuations. This is already the case with GTRs, check out the sale prices for original cars with full history and cars without or with modifications. There's already a 10-20% difference in the market.

It kind of is what it is, I'm still contemplating buying this car even if it's not the correct engine. It's more that I need to understand the difference in value now and in 10 years time. 

If you are looking at it from a purely 'investment' angle, then find a low KM example with all logbooks, export certs, stock everything including engine numbers, store it in a garage and don't drive it.. Ever.. 

Then sell in 15 yrs time.

 

 

Looking at the BaT auctions for these cars I don't think the collectors right now are really looking at engine numbers. Nobody buying these things cares about stuff like that when there are much bigger issues to be worried about like major rust problems, severely ragged out/damaged interiors, poorly done resprays, etc. Focus on condition and the rest will follow. Just swapping out an engine from late R32 to R33 is really a nothingburger when those engines are basically identical part for part. In 10 years who knows but I bet with all of the Adam LZs of the world doing big builds with no real concern for quality of work or maintaining the character and refinement of the OEM parts it will be even less relevant with such a slim pool of options for buyers. Just having a relatively stock good condition R32 GT-R VSpec II is already a very rare thing and will be even rarer in the future.

I'm not really a collector though, I bought a grade 3 R33 and restored it so I could have something that I could drive. It's not very fun to have a car where you're terrified of letting your feet rub against the floor mats when you press the clutch in or you fret about driving in the rain because it might rust due to Nissan's sparse factory undercoating. 

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
On 5/3/2021 at 3:27 AM, BK said:

So you're buying this as an investment ? If there is no concrete evidence how would you ever prove original motor authenticity to a potential buyer ?

Anyway for your information I can give you some numbers on our GTRs for further info:

10/1989 BNR32-002605, definitely original block was RB26003940A. Since replaced with new block RB26D090076P.

09/1990 BNR32-011875 : 99% sure original block RB26014217A.

02/1995 BCNR33-002155 : I'll bet my left nut original block as I bought this car completely standard and immaculte with 62000km on it over 18 years ago : RB26050092A.

Our latest edition 11/1989 BNR32-003217 with block RB26062552A. This car has been changed from KH2 to 326 and is the only one I'll guarantee has had another engine fitted before I got it.

I have to say suprisingly it does correspond so far with your above findings.

To add to this as some data, my BCNR33-005838 has the block RB26053761A on it. I suspect this engine is original as the car is pretty much stock before I got it. If we assume the VINs go upward in order and we assume no spare blocks are built for any reason then we get 53775, which is extremely close to what my block number actually ended up being. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...