Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Doing a R34 Getrag conversion in my Cefiro.

 

Looking at two clutch options the above ATS twin carbon silent and a Nismo Coppermix twin.

Currently have the push version of the Nismo coppermix(680ps) and found it started to slip around 700hp at wheels.

I also find it is a bit heavy on the foot(i've had a leg operation and due another). The pull version is rated to 780ps

 

On paper the ATS silent carbon twin ticks all the box's.

900ps rating

using factory dual mass

silent operation.

light pedal.

 

I read through the threads though on the carbon clutches and no shortage of stories of people pulling them out.

They are all from 2006 to 2014 though.

 

This is a new(ish) clutch by ATS , wondering if anyone has used ? is it any better ? does it suit the street as claimed ?

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482415-ats-carbon-silent-twin-anyone-used/
Share on other sites

I've spoken to a couple already (the better known and recommended in aus) and found them to not very helpful thus far.

 I have a direct clutch in my race car and whilst its great in that, it is so far from  what I want for my street car its not funny.

 

I am not aware of any Aus that make a silent clutch ?

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material.

It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, BK said:

Nismo coppermix clutches are not even in the same ballpark as any ATS carbon clutch. The silent carbon ATS clutch is really just retaining the dual mass flywheel as a means of trying to tame the excessive Getrag rollover gear noise which is enhanced with a solid flywheel. They are a pretty clunky sounding box like a Tremec T56 or TR6060, which is not helped by the fact they use an ATF fluid because of the synchro material.

It'll be a good clutch as the ATS carbons are the shit - the carbon plates are all the same. ACS in Adelaide used to stock ATS at good prices. If not they have their own twin carbon which might be worth a look behind a Getrag.

Are the ATS carbon clutches really all that good for street use? I was under the impression that the lack of springs in the clutch means it's much easier to cause shock loading of the drivetrain unless you take care to prevent it in how you drive.

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. 

Everything they sell rattles though.  Also have to do pull to push conversion. 

 

Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge. 

 

 

18 minutes ago, Butters said:

I rang ACS, they no longer do carbon clutches, only something called a carbon button. 

Everything they sell rattles though.  Also have to do pull to push conversion. 

 

Hunting down a dual mass flywheel to go with ATS silent carbon twin is next challenge. 

 

 

I love ATS, but I must say I don't actually believe the bnr34 silent ATS twin is a very good deal though, at $3700AUD before tax, import duty or shipping from RHD Japan and you have to add a 34 dual mass flywheel on top of that too. They really are starting to price themselves out of the market.

The BNR34 ATS silent clutch also requires a pull to push conversion as per Note 3.

http://www.ppi-ats.com/Silent_clutch.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ats-across-silent-carbon-twin-clutch-kit-spec-2-bnr34.html

  • 1 year later...

Well, I went the nismo twin clutch.  The clutch pedal in = silent as, drives amazing, foot feel is great and it holds power no problem   

.... but ...

in neutral with pedal out the box is pretty damn loud .. so loud I am googling ATS silent clutch again and finding my own thread :)

On 8/15/2022 at 2:38 PM, Ben C34 said:

That's not the clutch making the noise, it is locked up so no rattles possible, unless there is some freaky stuff happening

Yeah....but..... you have to account for the different (and obviously sometimes wrong) way that people use the terms "in" and "out" to describe clutch engagement and disengagement.

If you read

On 8/14/2022 at 9:15 PM, Butters said:

The clutch pedal in = silent as, drives amazing

As being the clutch pedal up/out (instead of Butters' "in"), then it makes sense.

And the use of "out" in the 2nd paragraph interpreted as "disengaged" would then also make sense.

It's all just a matter of whether you think that "pedal in" means "pedal pushed in" which means "clutch disengaged", or if you think "pedal in" means "pedal up" which then makes the "in" mean "engaged". Either of which can be argued for, but only one of them is going to be "obvious" to each person.

  • Like 1

Well to be be clear my saying - "clutch pedal in" means that the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor and the clutch is disengaged(no drive transmitted) at the gearbox.

So the noise on the clutch pedal out, or clutch engaged is the gearbox which is apparently normal with the getrag once you take the dual mass flywheel out.

 

So whilst it is the gearbox making the noise, it is a result of the change of clutch ...

 

ATS even made a video about it -

 

Edited by Butters

The conclusion I am on at the moment is I want a nismo twin plate mated to dual mass flywheel. 

 

That's the only zero noise, clutch engaged/not engaged option I can think of which of course does not exist. 

 

Going to email neat gearbox for some advice, they might have some options to drop the box noise. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...