Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Duncan said:

They are syncroniser clips, and would more commonly be found holding your syncro hubs together.

Did you change your oil for a reason?

Thanks duncan, Is it common for these syncroniser clips to fall out? How long do gearbox's last with them missing?

I had the gearbox rebuilt 2-3 yrs ago but it always felt a little sloppy, still works fine just a little notchy. Thought I'd change the oil...

 

 

 

yeah sorry I'm no gearbox expert. I guess it needs to come apart and may as well be checked/rebuilt while out.  The clips/keys hold the synchro hub assembly together and I think there are 3 per hub so perhaps the other one is holding in there for now, I was wondering if it was crunch shifting between a particular pair of gears.

  • Like 1

Those particular shifting inserts are from the 1st / 2nd gear selector coupling from your main shaft assembly, and as Duncan mentioned there is 3 if them.

image.thumb.png.6b6f127804fcbdb7b37e83a4e18f15a7.png

Only a matter of time before your box will not select 1st or 2nd properly and is totally possible to lock the selector up completely. 

Pull box and get it fixed, or you'll definitely do more serious damage to main shaft gears, synchros or coupling components.

This is absolutely not a "see how it goes" problem - you will kill your box if you don't address this now.

  • Like 4
10 hours ago, BK said:

Those particular shifting inserts are from the 1st / 2nd gear selector coupling from your main shaft assembly, and as Duncan mentioned there is 3 if them.

image.thumb.png.6b6f127804fcbdb7b37e83a4e18f15a7.png

Only a matter of time before your box will not select 1st or 2nd properly and is totally possible to lock the selector up completely. 

Pull box and get it fixed, or you'll definitely do more serious damage to main shaft gears, synchros or coupling components.

This is absolutely not a "see how it goes" problem - you will kill your box if you don't address this now.

Thanks BK, I'll get some quotes for a rebuild vs. a new box.

well, your profile nor post says which car / box, but potentially much cheaper to pull and rebuild. some of the Rb boxes are getting very expensive these days.

Few hours labour for box in and out if you can't do it. 

depending on whether the bearings and synchros are still good to reuse it may just be a few hours to refit the keys.

  • Like 1
On 07/06/2021 at 9:56 AM, dyl33 said:

Yeah I'm a little annoyed, I knew somthing wasn't 100% right when i picked it up.

It was rebuilt by Gavin Wood Autotech on the Gold Coast, but he has since gone out of business. 

Those solid inserts hold the 2 large circular springs on either side of the 1st / 2nd selector hub for the synchro baulk ring and is the same across all RB 5 speeds.

The 3rd / 4th inserts are a spring type clip and look like this when broken:

image.png.ef1af3390133e5e121cf10cfa8c2f2fb.png

Should look like this:

image.thumb.png.0cf4ec0923cd611d1a04e30656e03aab.png

Its way more common to pop the 3rd / 4th clips. The 3 ways these inserts come out on all gears is from:

1. Incorrect installation as they are pretty fragile.

2. Shifting like a Muppet, banging the gears through and forcing the shift.

3. Using a gearbox oil that is way too thick for the synchro to operate correctly like a diff oil or Shockproof. The thick viscosity actually will have a negative effect on the synchros to do their job and unnaturally load other components like shifting inserts, springs and sliding hubs.

  • Like 1
On 07/06/2021 at 11:53 AM, Duncan said:

A little off track, but I understand those clips you've shown are series1-2 R33. Apparently s3 R33 had a better designed clip installed and retrofit is possible.

Yes correct, that 3rd / 4th insert is a pre 97 clip. The solid insert on 1st / 2nd never changed but your correct, the 3rd / 4th spring type insert changed on the post 97 boxes to a solid two spring type design.

To retrofit to the later clip on 3rd and 4th requires everything to do with the main shaft 3rd and 4th to be changed including main shaft 3rd / 4th gear, synchro baulk rings, sliding selector collar - everything. Even the 3rd / 4th selector fork needs to be changed as it won't locate into the old selector collar. Its about $800 - $1000 worth of just parts to convert.

All of these parts required for the conversion is also what you need to do to go to a ungraded synchro gearset like a PPG, PAR or OS giken on an old box as they are all designed around the post 97 synchro update on 3rd / 4th - a cost not usually factored in when upgrading a synchro gearset.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
On 20/06/2021 at 10:28 PM, AleksandarR33 said:

They are shift inserts for 3rd & 4th gear, from month/year 06/97 onwards.

No, as mentioned in the original picture they are the 1st / 2nd gear ones.

Why do people with no idea what the hell they're talking about try and chime in on something as fact ?

It is the 1st / 2nd solid insert from the pics.

You have never built a box then have you.

I have - lots.

The solid ones are for 1st / 2nd, as they have a circular spring either side of them to provide the spring tension. The spring type looking ones are for 3rd / 4th as they are the spring.

Posts like this really shit me as it just contributes to misinformation from internet mechanics. If you don't know what you're on about - don't comment.

See below, same part for multiple Nissan boxes:

Screenshot_20210621-184657.thumb.png.e218a398c7d099edc61a600536fbea6b.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...