Coolant Drain Plug on the Engine Block

[r34yee]

I'm looking for the PART NUMBER of the coolant drain plug that is located on the engine block next to the dump pipe and turbo. The car is a 98 R34 GTT with an RB25DET. The thread is a 14mm with a 1.25 head. Yes I've tried Repco, Supercheap, and Autobarn, none of them have the exact one. Any reply will be appreciated thanks :)

[Duncan]

What is your Vin number?

[GoHashiriya]

I picked one up from Nissan not long ago, part number was: 08931-3041A. You can double check on Nissan EPC data if there is any variation between our cars. Mine is a '99 ER34 GTT.

 

Edited July 8, 2021 by GoHashiriya

[r34yee]

Yup that's it, thank you so much 🙂

[r34yee]

 

On 08/07/2021 at 6:44 PM, Duncan said:

What is your Vin number?

GoHashiriya found that part number all goods. Thanks for the reply

[Jack_Dubz]

How long did postage take? I just ordered one from Amayama.

[silviaz]

Does anyone use thread tape on the threads of this bolt or just bolt it back in?

[GTSBoy]

Never use thread tape on such things. Teflon thread compound, in a tube. Loctite, and all the usual other suspect brands have thread sealant.

[hardsteppa]

It is the most woefully design part IMO. Tiny thin head that strips and rounds easily, with the plug semi-welded into the threads with light corrosion. Weld a big-ass nut onto the head, makes it soo much easier to remove. Will take a pic of what i'm talking about when the engine is out shortly.

[silviaz]

15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Never use thread tape on such things. Teflon thread compound, in a tube. Loctite, and all the usual other suspect brands have thread sealant.

Ah right, thanks. I thought because water is thin it might require some kind of sealant. 

I'll put it in without anything.

[GTSBoy]

10 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Ah right, thanks. I thought because water is thin it might require some kind of sealant. 

I'll put it in without anything.

Um, no. I said not to use thread tape.

You should have read the remainder as the instruction as to what you should use. My bad for not being clear enough.

[silviaz]

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Um, no. I said not to use thread tape.

You should have read the remainder as the instruction as to what you should use.

Ah my bad, the way you wrote it I thought you meant not to use those products.

 

Edited April 21 by silviaz

[silviaz]

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Um, no. I said not to use thread tape.

You should have read the remainder as the instruction as to what you should use. My bad for not being clear enough.

I just realised on coolant flush tutorials they don't mention anything about after putting on sealant how long to wait for it to cure. Say for example you are doing multiple flushes to clear out the system, so you need to keep removing the bolt and putting it back in but surely you aren't waiting 24 hours for it to cure other wise the job could take 7 days if you need 6-7 flushes.

[GTSBoy]

5 minutes ago, silviaz said:

I just realised on coolant flush tutorials they don't mention anything about after putting on sealant how long to wait for it to cure. Say for example you are doing multiple flushes to clear out the system, so you need to keep removing the bolt and putting it back in but surely you aren't waiting 24 hours for it to cure other wise the job could take 7 days if you need 6-7 flushes.

In the case of repeated flushes, you wouldn't bother sealing it if it's going to be removed again shortly afterward. Any little leak is not going to be a problem. You just seal it up the last time.

I'd wait at least several hours, preferably a day, before loading any joint sealed with thread compound. It is an anaerobic sealant, meaning it should go off straight after being locked up between threads. But I find it is still wet long after use. Just give it some time to firm up before pressurising it.

[silviaz]

27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

In the case of repeated flushes, you wouldn't bother sealing it if it's going to be removed again shortly afterward. Any little leak is not going to be a problem. You just seal it up the last time.

I'd wait at least several hours, preferably a day, before loading any joint sealed with thread compound. It is an anaerobic sealant, meaning it should go off straight after being locked up between threads. But I find it is still wet long after use. Just give it some time to firm up before pressurising it.

Ok, thanks!

[silviaz]

59 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

In the case of repeated flushes, you wouldn't bother sealing it if it's going to be removed again shortly afterward. Any little leak is not going to be a problem. You just seal it up the last time.

I'd wait at least several hours, preferably a day, before loading any joint sealed with thread compound. It is an anaerobic sealant, meaning it should go off straight after being locked up between threads. But I find it is still wet long after use. Just give it some time to firm up before pressurising it.

Doing some research, these thread sealers (including loctite 592) take about 72 hours to cure.  Suprised it's that long.

[Duncan]

I've always just put that plug in dry (ie no sealant), it is a tapered thread so do it up "fairly" tight but not VFT and it should be fine

[silviaz]

38 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I've always just put that plug in dry (ie no sealant), it is a tapered thread so do it up "fairly" tight but not VFT and it should be fine

Yeah. I usually go by the torque specs. I forgot that Nissan recommends 1386b sealant on that thread, still can buy it on ebay actually.