Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys!

 

Just a quick one, hoping to get some confirmation and information from a builder or someone much more smarter than I with regards to a build I’m doing with possibly the above mentioned parts in my RB26. 
 

I already have in relation to the build the stroker kit (Tomei RB28) that I got for a steal as well as the full Ferrea valve train setup with the +1mm OS valves.  I’ve now been given the opportunity to buy a HKS Vcam Step 2 system for again a very good price and I’m incredibly keen.  Before I go ahead and drop the money I’d just like to know if there are any conflicting issues with any of the above gear when it comes time to getting the engine actually built?  I know the Step 2 Vcam requires pistons with the valve recesses, but is there any issue mating both the Vcam system and the Tomei pistons with the valve recesses all together with the oversized Ferrea valves?

 

If anyone could give me a straight answer on this or point me in the right direction I’d truly appreciate it.  I’ve done a boatload of reading but haven’t come up with a conclusive answer as of yet unfortunately. 
 

Cheers, have a rad day!
 

 

You need 6.7mm of valve clearance at TDC.

 

Easiest is to determine if you have this after assembly but quite a waste of time..

IF you did your trigonometry at school and have the piston information and valve angle then you should be able to work it out.

Ie put the head on a bench and measure relief to deck height, then do the same for the block to piston and add the gasket thickness.

Screenshot_20210717-070444.png

Thanks for the reply Burnie, although it’s all a little over my head.  I should’ve paid a bit more attention during maths half a lifetime ago in school, hey?

 

I think I’ll just have to risk it.  If push comes to shove there’ll probably be either some below cost brand new valves, pistons or Vcam setup depending on what works and doesn’t work. 

On 7/17/2021 at 5:25 PM, -Johnno- said:

Thanks for the reply Burnie, although it’s all a little over my head.  I should’ve paid a bit more attention during maths half a lifetime ago in school, hey?

 

I think I’ll just have to risk it.  If push comes to shove there’ll probably be either some below cost brand new valves, pistons or Vcam setup depending on what works and doesn’t work. 

huh? if you dont have enough clearance you get the pistons machined. You dont buy new pistons or valves.

  • 9 months later...
On 7/16/2021 at 8:42 AM, -Johnno- said:

Gday guys!

 

Just a quick one, hoping to get some confirmation and information from a builder or someone much more smarter than I with regards to a build I’m doing with possibly the above mentioned parts in my RB26. 
 

I already have in relation to the build the stroker kit (Tomei RB28) that I got for a steal as well as the full Ferrea valve train setup with the +1mm OS valves.  I’ve now been given the opportunity to buy a HKS Vcam Step 2 system for again a very good price and I’m incredibly keen.  Before I go ahead and drop the money I’d just like to know if there are any conflicting issues with any of the above gear when it comes time to getting the engine actually built?  I know the Step 2 Vcam requires pistons with the valve recesses, but is there any issue mating both the Vcam system and the Tomei pistons with the valve recesses all together with the oversized Ferrea valves?

 

If anyone could give me a straight answer on this or point me in the right direction I’d truly appreciate it.  I’ve done a boatload of reading but haven’t come up with a conclusive answer as of yet unfortunately. 
 

Cheers, have a rad day!
 

 

This is exactly the same question I have more my build as well. HKS 2.8, VCAM and +1 valves. Very interested to know how it worked out for you. I know Step 2 VCAM requires piston relief cuts, however, will the relief cuts that piston manufacturers do work with oversized valves? Its certainly a good question, and probably a common combination these days

Really, no one can tell you. You have to measure it up as there are too many unknowns and variables.

- are there oversized valves? What size?

- has the head been decked? If so, by how much?

- has the block been decked? If so, by how much?

- head gasket thickness?

- rod to stroke ratio affects where the piston is the bore to the relation of the crank. 

- dome height of pistons

- valve relief? How deep?

So many variables the only way to know is to do it the hard way and measure it up. ANYTHING else is a guess at best. It is a expensive mistake if it’s ‘just’ off.

Again, I can't believe that these threads exist. Back in the 1930s, when someone wanted to find out if the valves on their DOHC Peugeot Grand Prix car would hit the pistons when they advanced the cam timing 3°, they would dummy assemble the engine and find out.

Nothing has changed! Except the recipe book modifying scene.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
On 07/05/2022 at 6:36 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

2JZ 500kW on E85 with just studs and you can even bang the limiter all night. Can't do that with a RB without blowing apart  things.

C'mon dude, I expected more BMW from you. B58/S58 with like 500 kWrW

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...