Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G’day 

High beams comes on with stalk moved forward to permanently on but won’t work on flash ( inward stalk spring movement ).

does anyone know what it could be ? I have tried cleaning the stalk, is there a separate relay for this, perhaps fuse ? 
 

Also are low beams supposed to go off when stalk is in forward position for highs to stay on ? 
 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482648-r32-headlight-used-search/
Share on other sites

Yes, with the original factory wiring, when the Hi comes on the Low goes off.

And yes, the flash function (stalk back) uses the brown relay in the engine bay (can't remember off the top of my head if it has a different fuse, but I don't think so).  The hi on function (stalk forward) just uses the switch and no relay is involved

Appreciate it man, I think most probably that brown relay is blown in my case will check anyhow. I just remember it making continued weird noises when I first started working on but did care at that time. 
 

quick question- 

Does the low beam go of with the flash function (stalk back) aswell  ?

Just curious before work on her again.

 

thanks 

sorry, I should add....yes the relay is an easy test/fix because you can just steal one form anywhere else, swap in and flick the headlights.

but also be aware it is getting pretty common for these switches to fail, the full current runs through the switch and they have 30 years of use on them. They are available brand new from nissan

  • Thanks 1

It’s all in the wiring from factory. They were designed to dip the low beams off with high beams on. Just bridge some wires under the steering wheel and off you go. 
Best to replace the headlight switch and add 2 relays to divert the current away from the contacts in the switch and directly to the headlights (hard wired to battery and use the original headlight positive wire as the relay trigger) much better light as they will get a full 12-14 volts and and less stress on the switch contacts as there is no massive current draw

A4624000-6A81-4AFC-85C1-6F21B75FE360.png

B37680E8-4D31-42EC-99FA-6C223A62BBAD.jpeg

2B725DD6-6D84-4F1E-85DA-3ED39BBB5A08.jpeg

@Adam91Thanks man, that’s exactly what I was thinking of doing for the low beams, Also have you bridged it to have them both on same time ?

Anyhow just discovered another problem regarding which I started the thread, 

So what is the neutral position for the high beams on the stalk ?

I think mine is bit noodled up, central position turns high beam on front turns off and have no flash on complete inward spring position. Can someone confirm what positions is turn on off on theirs please. 

On 7/21/2021 at 9:52 PM, Rb25orange said:

So what is the neutral position for the high beams on the stalk ?

I think mine is bit noodled up, central position turns high beam on front turns off and have no flash on complete inward spring position. Can someone confirm what positions is turn on off on theirs please. 

Central is high beams off

Forward towards front of car is high beams on (stays locked forward)

Rearward towards driver is to flash (doesnt stay locked in)

On 21/07/2021 at 9:52 PM, Rb25orange said:

@Adam91Thanks man, that’s exactly what I was thinking of doing for the low beams, Also have you bridged it to have them both on same time ?

Anyhow just discovered another problem regarding which I started the thread, 

So what is the neutral position for the high beams on the stalk ?

I think mine is bit noodled up, central position turns high beam on front turns off and have no flash on complete inward spring position. Can someone confirm what positions is turn on off on theirs please. 

Yes the first pic shows which wires to bridge to make high beams come on with the low beams without dropping the lows out (just like normal cars). Would recommend bridging the wires at the back of the plug (under the steering wheel) with heat shrink rather than the paper clip trick shown in the picture I provided

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...