Jump to content
SAU Community

Restoring R32 ECU with Mines tune?

weikleenget
 Share

Recommended Posts

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
Posted

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. 

I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482998-restoring-r32-ecu-with-mines-tune/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. 

However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 6:51 AM, weikleenget said:

Hi all, as the title suggests my R32 GTR has an ECU with a Mines tune which worked really well in summer and was a ton of fun, but now that the cold weather has set in, it’s running very rich and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding. 

I understand that they epoxied the RAM to the OEM board with this tune so resetting is tough but I’m wondering if anyone knows a specialist who can revert it back to OEM settings?

Thanks!

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 1:46 PM, Duncan said:

To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. 

However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere.

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded, and the car starts shuddering. It’s gotten significantly worse as the weather gets colder, and wasn’t an issue at all above 70*. I don’t think I have a misfire, had a compression test done and they tested all the cylinders everything was fine. Just happens when boost comes on in the cold

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2021 at 7:53 AM, joshuaho96 said:

I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

On 11/10/2021 at 12:05 PM, weikleenget said:

At any amount of boost and the throttle is almost completely retarded,

Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying?

What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 5:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

Almost guaranteed I would grind into the board trying that and scrap it, maybe some people have steadier hands but I assume most people aren't that precise with a dremel. Someone will surely buy it just for the Mine's name, so better to just sell it and get a stock ECU which everyone seems to get rid of for a standalone these days.

weikleenget Explorer

weikleenget

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 11/9/2021 at 7:58 PM, GTSBoy said:

It's just an EEPROM. Epoxy isn't some magical substance. Anyone sufficiently fearless with a small Dremel burr would be able to remove epoxy from around the Mines chip legs sufficient to be able to get the chip out and a stocker (or more sensibly, a Nistune board) back in its place.

Having said that, a Mines ECU is essentially a bin job. They should never have existed.

Throttle doesn't retard. What exactly are you saying?

What does the boost gauge say? What is the fuel pressure? What is the AFM voltage at the time?

I’ll have to check fuel pressure and AFM voltage but boost won’t go positive. What I mean is the throttle loses all response above 2500rpm, pedal turns to mush and the car shakes

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
On 11/10/2021 at 1:51 AM, weikleenget said:

...and won’t get above 2500rpm without the throttle retarding.

Isn't this a symptom of a problem in the AFM? So, maybe the colder weather has caused a gap to open up in a broken solder joint.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...