Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm wanting to add some additional wire terminals for blade fuses into the front fuse box on my 1997 R33 GTST as part of cleaning up the previous owners dodgy wiring. The positive side of the terminals are there that connect to the +ve bus, but for some of the fuse slots the negative wire terminal is missing. These wire terminals pin into 24381 on the catalogue diagram below.

image.thumb.png.eecfbfc3a41278b296458f943f98b4c7.png
image.thumb.png.daf01d5e73d35992bf34beff75bb8f40.png

 

Does anyone know what wiring terminals are used in the fusebox? I know a lot of Sumitomo connectors and terminals are used elsewhere on the car.

Alternatively, does anyone know the trick to depin one so I can identify it visually? I haven't had any luck so far. From the catalogue diagram it looks like the whole fusible link holder removes which might give me some more success in getting a better view to depin, but I have been unable to figure out how it comes out yet. I'm sure it's clipped in.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483002-r33-front-fuse-box-terminals/
Share on other sites

I can't confirm the connector to buy separately and I guess you mean load not negative for the side you are trying to add.

Having said that, groups of fuses will unclip from the main holder. You can see the little tabs in your first pic, eg to the left of the left hand 15A fuse - you need to flick all of them out then pull the section out of the frame. If you can't get every clip at the same time (lots of little screwdrivers...) you need to start at one end with a couple of tabs and pull the holder up far enough to get past the clips, then hold it up and move to the next set.

That will get the fuse holder out of the frame, but you may ind it can't come far due to wire lengths at the rear.

From behind, you will see how to depin the fuses

  • Like 1

Was able to pull out the terminal and identify. Posting here in case anyone searching in future needs this information.

This is the wiring terminal used for the blade fuses in the front fuse box of my Nissan Skyline R33 GTST.
Yazaki 7126-8771
https://www.nbzte.com/yazaki-connector-7126-8771.html

Thanks all for your help.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
On 16/11/2021 at 4:59 PM, Robospecta said:

Was able to pull out the terminal and identify. Posting here in case anyone searching in future needs this information.

This is the wiring terminal used for the blade fuses in the front fuse box of my Nissan Skyline R33 GTST.
Yazaki 7126-8771
https://www.nbzte.com/yazaki-connector-7126-8771.html

Thanks all for your help.

Excellent detective work...how did you identify that terminal?

  • Like 1

With about 10 - 20 hours of searching on the internet 😂 Unfortunately no markings or stamps on the terminal that I could see even under magnification.

Eventually I joined an Automotive Connector Identification group on Facebook, and searched for "Nissan" in their posts. Found a post with someone looking to identify a terminal on their 2000 Nissan Maxima. Someone had replied with a photo and part number of the terminal I was after. Didn't happen to be what the original poster was looking for, but I was certainly grateful that someone had commented it. 🙃
https://www.facebook.com/groups/4359499570789592/posts/6049608905111975

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi @sonic99 :) 

If you're looking for the part numbers for a "front fuse box cover" perhaps best to start a new thread where we can help you. This thread is concerned with the terminals crimped onto the end of wires in the fuse box.

If you are in fact looking for "front fuse box wire terminals" then if you post a photo I can compare with mine and let you know if the part number above is applicable. I can't see why it would be different.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
On 11/11/2021 at 12:02 AM, Duncan said:

I can't confirm the connector to buy separately and I guess you mean load not negative for the side you are trying to add.

Having said that, groups of fuses will unclip from the main holder. You can see the little tabs in your first pic, eg to the left of the left hand 15A fuse - you need to flick all of them out then pull the section out of the frame. If you can't get every clip at the same time (lots of little screwdrivers...) you need to start at one end with a couple of tabs and pull the holder up far enough to get past the clips, then hold it up and move to the next set.

That will get the fuse holder out of the frame, but you may ind it can't come far due to wire lengths at the rear.

From behind, you will see how to depin the fuses

I need help getting mine out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
    • That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?
    • Oh yeah gets really bad down here. I’ll have to upgrade the heater and wind screen wipers as well for optimal performance.
×
×
  • Create New...