Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 26/01/2022 at 6:03 AM, Bigpad said:

Well I bought a pink label MAF off a low mileage r33 spec 2. I’m told they’re the same? Plugged it in and started the car. It fired and ran just fine (I didn’t take it for a spin as it’s cold and dark and I haven’t done up all of the hose clamps or brackets). 
However, despite the car seemingly running fine all of the dash lights are still lit up. I won’t know how she runs for sure until the weekend but I’d really like to get those dash lights sorted? Any help or advice would be appreciated! 👍

 

Also….. Is this what I need:-

9C185935-E9EE-44F3-99BD-15EB6E25CEC5.thumb.png.aa93f4bfd2f4aefcda4ab0e975edc9fc.png 
and then download the data scan 1 software?

thanks again. 👊

I have that same unit. Works very well with my laptop via USB running Windows 11.

So I’ve taken the car for a bit of a drive. It starts and drives just fine. I still have the dash lights on so have bridges the two pins on the diagnostic port. I’m getting code 21 which from what I’m reading is suggesting a coil pack issue. I’ve obviously done the coil packs, spark plugs, MAF and CAS. That doesn’t rule these out of course but the fact that the car starts and runs fine suggests they’re all good. Bridging the pins further and shutting the car off has not gotten rid of the warning lights!

Any help/advice would be appreciated. 

On 1/30/2022 at 5:51 AM, Bigpad said:

So I’ve taken the car for a bit of a drive. It starts and drives just fine. I still have the dash lights on so have bridges the two pins on the diagnostic port. I’m getting code 21 which from what I’m reading is suggesting a coil pack issue. I’ve obviously done the coil packs, spark plugs, MAF and CAS. That doesn’t rule these out of course but the fact that the car starts and runs fine suggests they’re all good. Bridging the pins further and shutting the car off has not gotten rid of the warning lights!

Any help/advice would be appreciated. 

Code 21 means the ECU isn’t seeing the right resistance on one of the coilpack primary side circuits. I got it once when my ignitor unit had a slightly loose connection. 

On 1/31/2022 at 3:32 AM, Bigpad said:

The R34 doesn’t have an igniter unit does it? 
could the issue by the coil pack harness? 

R34s shouldn't, but the logic is the same. The ECU sees the primary side wiring from the ECU output all the way out to the coilpack pins and back to the ground point. If it sees open circuit it sets a code 21. Short circuit you would probably detect pretty rapidly regardless of whether the code is reported or not.

On 2/1/2022 at 7:06 AM, joshuaho96 said:

The ECU sees the primary side wiring from the ECU output all the way out to the coilpack pins

That's true of the R34s, but only inasmuch as it is also true for engines with a separate igniter. The ECU is not actually connected to the coils at all, on any of them. It is connected to the igniter. So the ECU's diagnostics on the "primary side" is actually only to the transistor that is the igniter. True for both older separate igniters and for integrated igniters.

The ECU does not see the primary coil of the coilpack.

On 1/31/2022 at 3:47 PM, GTSBoy said:

That's true of the R34s, but only inasmuch as it is also true for engines with a separate igniter. The ECU is not actually connected to the coils at all, on any of them. It is connected to the igniter. So the ECU's diagnostics on the "primary side" is actually only to the transistor that is the igniter. True for both older separate igniters and for integrated igniters.

The ECU does not see the primary coil of the coilpack.

Good to know, when I was thinking about this issue for a while I had a feeling that was the case but I checked all the connections from the PTU to the coils anyways. My circuits professors are probably shaking their heads right now.

  • 4 weeks later...

So……

Ive been able to plug the car in but don’t really know what I’m doing. I was able to isolate each cylinder in turn and the car behaved as I would of expected. Reset the ecu via the laptop but all warning lights stay on. 

Ive now replaced the coil pack harness as I wanted to rule it out but still no joy. The car is running ok but it seems to have a ‘stutter’ every few seconds on tickover. 
 

Can anyone advise as to where I should be looking next? It’s really bugging me now. 
 

Thanks. 

I think you've changed the spark plugs, coil packs and coil pack loom so far? Which coil packs did you install? Can you swap the best of your original coil packs in one by one and see if you can identify one of the new ones is not OK? Also, what plugs did you install?

Also, you've mentioned it has a miss at idle. How does it run for normal driving and at full throttle, is it smooth or does it still break down?

I'm assuming the issue is on the spark side since that is what you got from the ECU....but of course it could still turn out to be a fuel or timing issue

On 3/1/2022 at 12:47 PM, Bigpad said:

So……

Ive been able to plug the car in but don’t really know what I’m doing. I was able to isolate each cylinder in turn and the car behaved as I would of expected. Reset the ecu via the laptop but all warning lights stay on. 

Ive now replaced the coil pack harness as I wanted to rule it out but still no joy. The car is running ok but it seems to have a ‘stutter’ every few seconds on tickover. 
 

Can anyone advise as to where I should be looking next? It’s really bugging me now. 
 

Thanks. 

When you say stutter every few seconds do you mean the idle dips and recovers? If so make sure you are 100% sure you can trust the provenance of your spark plugs. I have gotten counterfeit ebay spark plugs before and while it mostly drove normally I noticed that at idle it would stumble and then catch itself cyclically. I have no explanation as to why that happened but replacing the spark plugs with OEM plugs sourced from a trustworthy source the engine ran normally again.

Does the ECU report any codes when you check via the laptop? You're going to have to figure out whether the control module is actually reporting error codes that should cause the warning lights to turn on or if it's something wrong with the cluster/wiring harness.

I bought all the replacement parts from reputable companies here in the uk but you’re correct, that doesn’t rule them out as still faulty. 
 

does the ecu report any codes you ask? Hmmmm that might of been some valuable info to include. 🙈🙈

 

7B647A87-629A-4D7E-8E94-2C6AC7307401.png

5A37A6A8-126D-4C29-904B-BF6BB50AC823.png

04B62DE3-C379-4F25-A860-C69F40A364BD.png

I would start looking for line breaks in the cylinder 1 injector circuit. That's a pretty simple circuit to follow. It is very strange to me that your engine runs at all with that ignition circuit code, when I had it my car straight up would not crank over at all. It's possible that it will go away if you clear it but if it doesn't you probably shouldn't ignore it. The other mystery error codes are kind of concerning, not sure what's going on there. Could be a lot of things causing it.

  • 3 months later...

Well the saga is over. I bit the bullet and bought some splitfire coilpacks. While I was fitting then I replaced the cold NGK plugs I’d fitted for ones recommended by a member on here. Started the car up, the dash lights are off and the stutter is gone. Thank f**k!

thanks to everyone who commented. I really appreciate the help. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...