Jump to content
SAU Community

Speedo not working 1990 R31


MattBas1975
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all, thanks for letting me join group. Some help here would he much appreciated. My son bought he's 1st R31 and we have no Speedo working. I have attached Pics if what we discovered yesterday. It's a conversation to manual.

 

Cheers Matt

received_1265258647579530.jpeg

received_399213785638569.jpeg

received_3383118055308203.jpeg

received_765912838075202.jpeg

received_400953538815954.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forums Matt, and well done to your son for making an excellent choice in 1st car.

I am not familiar with R31 setups, but R32 used a mechanical speedo drive from the gearbox to the dash and I suspect R31 might as well. Is there another connection further back on the gearbox on the passenger side? Of course this may never have been done properly when the manual swap was done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's an RP71C #2 (photo taken from this very site) showing an electronic speed sender.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i30/0t1/more/IMG_0296.jpg

I'm not at all sure what that 3pin connector is all about - unless it is the wiring for the reverse and neutral switches brought together. It's certainly not the usual connector for the speed sensor.

Anyway - I'm pretty sure that the R31a used a mechanical speedo drive, and this gearbox, being an R33 turbo box (the best thing to have, by the way) usually has an electronic speed sender, as in the image above. So - you cannot make it work without building a mechanical speedo drive. You will need the speedo drive from a Navara from the same period to do this. I think you have to use the gear from your electronic drive to get the right ratio (Navara being different). There are howtos on here and elsewhere on the net, although I've never actually seen one as I didn't have to do mine - my bro'-in-law built the drive for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 31/07/2022 at 10:35 AM, Duncan said:

Welcome to the forums Matt, and well done to your son for making an excellent choice in 1st car.

I am not familiar with R31 setups, but R32 used a mechanical speedo drive from the gearbox to the dash and I suspect R31 might as well. Is there another connection further back on the gearbox on the passenger side? Of course this may never have been done properly when the manual swap was done.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 31/07/2022 at 11:19 AM, GTSBoy said:

Here's an RP71C #2 (photo taken from this very site) showing an electronic speed sender.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i30/0t1/more/IMG_0296.jpg

I'm not at all sure what that 3pin connector is all about - unless it is the wiring for the reverse and neutral switches brought together. It's certainly not the usual connector for the speed sensor.

Anyway - I'm pretty sure that the R31a used a mechanical speedo drive, and this gearbox, being an R33 turbo box (the best thing to have, by the way) usually has an electronic speed sender, as in the image above. So - you cannot make it work without building a mechanical speedo drive. You will need the speedo drive from a Navara from the same period to do this. I think you have to use the gear from your electronic drive to get the right ratio (Navara being different). There are howtos on here and elsewhere on the net, although I've never actually seen one as I didn't have to do mine - my bro'-in-law built the drive for me.

Cheers mate. Will check to see if cable is actually in the back of the dash tonight and we'll take it from there. Appreciate your feedback a lot. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/8/2022 at 9:02 AM, MattBas1975 said:

Cheers mate. Will check to see if cable is actually in the back of the dash tonight and we'll take it from there. Appreciate your feedback a lot. 

Hi Matt, I have a RP71C#2 gearbox in my car and it is the twin synchro RB20det gearbox from the r32 Skyline, my car uses a mechanical drive speedo which I recently replaced the speedo pinion drive as it disintegrated and jammed up and would not let me select 5th gear. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
    • Yes that sounds right. Cars currently in the shop for the engine work. Will need to remeasure .. but yes I think I must be targeting 45cm from fender. 
×
×
  • Create New...