Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Toyota Estima hybrid AHR20 2013. The diffrential arm bushing need replacing. The OEM differential arm part number is 52380-28050. Please let me know if you know anyone who can supply or supply and install the differential arm bushing. I have asked Febest Auto Parts, Auto-Parts and Auto Plus Parts, without any luck. Thank you in advance for any relevant information.  

On 8/11/2022 at 2:52 PM, soviet_merlin said:

On the plus side it's cheap and you'll be set for the next 2000 years.

Yes you are right. Even conservatively one for 10 years, it would last 1000 years. The Alibaba suplier offer a sample for US$100. 

You'd need the sample, and the other 99 samples, because the guy on Alibaba is probably going to try to reverse engineer the part from photos and then stamp them out of pie tins. Or find a part off a Mitsubishi that looks similar.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2

All this fuss over sourcing a Tarago diff support bracket / cross member. You'll  probably get one from the wreckers.

Just buy it direct for a genuine one from Japan at Amayama, JP car parts, RHDjapan or hell even ebay and call it a day as its only a $100 - $200 part.

Just curious, but why do you need to replace this anyway ? Is the assembly broken or just the pressed in bush flogged out ?

  • Like 2

Oh, I have to be careful with sarcasm on the internet. Please don't buy from Alibaba unless you know what you are doing! Don't skimp on things that affect your health and safety. And buying a shipping container's worth of anything is most likely not a good idea.

As the others have said, buy genuine parts and sleep sound knowing that they are safe.

On 8/12/2022 at 9:18 AM, BK said:

All this fuss over sourcing a Tarago diff support bracket / cross member. You'll  probably get one from the wreckers.

Just buy it direct for a genuine one from Japan at Amayama, JP car parts, RHDjapan or hell even ebay and call it a day as its only a $100 - $200 part.

Just curious, but why do you need to replace this anyway ? Is the assembly broken or just the pressed in bush flogged out ?

The metal part is fine. It is the rubber bush has broken such that the diff (actually, it is a rear electric drive as the car is an Estima hybrid) moves up and down to make a knocking noise, particularly when start moving the car. The rubber bushing is also hard to source. I have asked a number car mechanics and they are unable to get the part. This is all the fun to drive an imported car. 

Ok so the pressed in bush is stuffed, and that bush is not available separately as it comes fitted to the mount. So your only option is to source a new one from the places mentioned.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...