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Gauge Setups

kevboost7

By kevboost7,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Murray_Calavera
Murray_Calavera

You can 100% do this with the IC7.  So things like water temp, you can setup an alarm / warning to trigger whenever you like. Then while racing, you can hit a button on the IC7 and clear the warn

Duncan
Duncan

What do you do with the car Like Rob I've used gauges, loggers and dashes in the race and street cars, depends what you are looking for. Of course, nothing beats Power FC hand controller for

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

Meanwhile I've pulled out all the gauges from my car. Less distractions, let the ECU and multi level engine protection strategies do the hard work. Will at some stage put in a small dash or

Posted Images

Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted
58 minutes ago, Duncan said:

correct, although I understand you can leave ground off too if you want, the box is USB powered.

Gotcha, getting the occasional flash on the send LED however RealDash is stating it is "Connecting USB Serial" every 5 or so seconds, with a Timeout shown as well in Can Monitor. With the car running neither the Send or Rev. lights activate.

 

Is there anything I need to do on the Haltech NSP software? I would have assumed it would be able to intercept the CAN data without Haltech NSP needing to be updated. I believe Baud rate on realdash matches the adapter as well at 2000000, maybe this is too high?

Screenshot_20230203-155803.png

Screenshot_20230203-155800.png

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I can't help with the Haltech side, but if the seeed adapter is not flashing it is not receiving or understanding the data.

And if it is flashing OK, if the CAN adapter is not showing live data CAN Monitor then the setup issue is at the Realdash end

soviet_merlin Mentor

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Borci88 said:

Is there anything I need to do on the Haltech NSP software? I would have assumed it would be able to intercept the CAN data without Haltech NSP needing to be updated. I believe Baud rate on realdash matches the adapter as well at 2000000, maybe this is too high?

Just a thought: do the settings match what is set on the Haltech? From what I understand baud rate, endianness and signedness need to be in sync as it determines the transfer speed and encoding. You mention 2,000,000 but your screenshot shows a CAN speed of 250kbps which is 250,000.

Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

Just a thought: do the settings match what is set on the Haltech? From what I understand baud rate, endianness and signedness need to be in sync as it determines the transfer speed and encoding. You mention 2,000,000 but your screenshot shows a CAN speed of 250kbps which is 250,000.

That's what I will look into today, I'm not sure haltech mentions anything in their software what their can rate is set to? I realise now I have the Endianness selected incorrectly in the app, however I think I did try big and little and had no luck.

soviet_merlin Mentor

soviet_merlin

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Borci88 said:

I'm not sure haltech mentions anything in their software what their can rate is set to?

The docs for the Haltech CAN keypad mention that it runs on 1,000kbps, so 1,000,000. See attached. The closest setting from the analyser docs seems to be 1,228,800. Have you tried setting it to that? But yeah, doesn't look like there is a lot of documentation from Haltech.

I'm impressed how quickly you got the adapter. I'm still waiting on mine.

keypad_specs.png

alexj Contributor

alexj

Posted
Posted (edited)

You may be mixing up the serial uart baud rate with the CAN bus speed. 

The haltech and CAN analyser need the have the same CAN bus speed (1mbs) and the CAN analyser and the Dash need the same serial baud rate.

Edited by alexj
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Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, soviet_merlin said:

The docs for the Haltech CAN keypad mention that it runs on 1,000kbps, so 1,000,000. See attached. The closest setting from the analyser docs seems to be 1,228,800. Have you tried setting it to that? But yeah, doesn't look like there is a lot of documentation from Haltech.

I'm impressed how quickly you got the adapter. I'm still waiting on mine.

keypad_specs.png

Did you buy yours from Seeed directly? I bought from Pakronics after seeing they were located in Thomastown and took the gamble that they weren't shipping from China.

3 hours ago, alexj said:

You may be mixing up the serial uart baud rate with the CAN bus speed. 

The haltech and CAN analyser need the have the same CAN bus speed (1mbs) and the CAN analyser and the Dash need the same serial baud rate.

Yep got it working, baud rate matches as well as can bus speed. RealDash just doesn't seem to have a nice gauge setup purely for temps and pressures, I don't need anything with a Speedo and tacho!

  • 3 months later...
jdniss Contributor

jdniss

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 2/3/2023 at 2:45 PM, Borci88 said:

Alright so I have all the parts required to try this out on a Haltech. Am I right in assuming that I am only using the hi and lo CAN wires and the ground? And that the power wire remains unused?

PXL_20230203_034344437.jpg

Just an FYI @Borci88 - try not to be too rough with the USB end of these adapters - I've just had the USB connector snap off the board internally, taking the solder pads with it - I suspect due to vibration in the car, over 24 months.

Have since found the 'MeatPi WiCAN' that looks to be almost identical - however also features Bluetooth, WiFI and can be powered off a 12V source, rather than USB powered like the SeeedStudio adapter.
https://www.meatpi.com/products/wican

There also looks to be a USB-C version without Bluetooth and WiFI:
https://www.tindie.com/products/meatpi/meatpi-usb-dual-can-adapter/

Edited by jdniss

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