Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 setup - power and injectors size


Recommended Posts

Before i buy injectors and fuel pump etc and leave the car for tuning, which size of injectors would you go for? 

I think i want to run as low power as i can with the GT28-5 turbos. But would be nice to have some room for more maybe. 
I have OEM injectors refurbished and cleaned but they wont probably be enough as someone mentioned here before?
 

Fuelpump about 255l/h - 340l/h?

something else you would change before tuning the car?

Setup:

Rb26dett with

-twin GT28-5 turbo

-JE-pistons 8.2:1

-Eagle H-Beam rods

-ACL race main and rod bearings

-Oil pump collar installed

-Older verision of LINK G4 ECU

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Why are you choosing to go with such low compression?

I actually dont know. These was ordered from Realstreetperformance, and i belive i had these recommended by them but i could be wrong. Could be the the guy building the engine that told me to get these ones as well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/01/2023 at 9:04 PM, GTSBoy said:

Just go straight for 1000cc Bosch ID14s from somewhere reputable. A ~340L/h TI pump would be fine. Wired properly, of course.

Okey, thank you. How lower power could i run with the 1000cc:s do you think? How much power can the engine handle? I do not want to push anything. :)

I will re-wire the fuelpump! Thanks for the reminder. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

How lower power could i run with the 1000cc:s do you think?

Stock. If it will idle on an injector (and of course, with a decent computer, the engine will idle on 1000s) then it can run ANY power level above that (up to the limit of the injector capacity, of course).

4 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

How much power can the engine handle? I do not want to push anything.

Most of your list of engine mods would contribute to being able to run up to the limit of what the turbos can provide - except for one thing. I would not attempt to do so without a significant oil pump upgrade, and then paying attention to the engine breathing and oil draining situation - as per the oil control thread (or the last 100-150 pages of it anyway).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

I actually dont know. These was ordered from Realstreetperformance, and i belive i had these recommended by them but i could be wrong. Could be the the guy building the engine that told me to get these ones as well. 

Send them back and get a higher cr.

5 hours ago, reallyspeedly said:

Thank you for the reminder about the ballast delete. 

AIT? Do you mean intake air temperature sensor? 

Well, i guess the tuner can tune the TPS 😬

Yes for the air inlet temp and not what I meant for the tune. See here. Some tunas talk a good game but individual throttle body tunes are beyond them. Where abouts in the world are you?

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I would prefer being able to stop for fuel anywhere I like rather than the fuel stations with E85 being 15-20km apart.

Hence full flex allows just that, depending on fuel choice your power will vary.

When you feel like a 20 year old fuccboiiii and want to race people on the street or actually go to a race track then fill it up with E85 then top up the tank with 98RON for your commute with whatever ethanol is left.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hence full flex allows just that, depending on fuel choice your power will vary.

When you feel like a 20 year old fuccboiiii and want to race people on the street or actually go to a race track then fill it up with E85 then top up the tank with 98RON for your commute with whatever ethanol is left.

Exactly what I do having the cars on flex, and I live somewhere where E85 has to be drummed up.

3 hours ago, djr81 said:

Yes for the air inlet temp and not what I meant for the tune. See here. Some tunas talk a good game but individual throttle body tunes are beyond them.

True that so many tuners want to try to tune individual throttle RB26s with MAP because they don't understand TPS fuel load and then get poor results.

One of the many reasons I went to Simon at Morpowa as one of the few who I had confidence in to do it on fuel TPS load with the Haltech.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, reallyspeedly said:

Is there any good reason for this? It's too late to send them back, the engine is built awhile ago already.

Well if the motor is built then it's built. 

There are many good reasons for higher compression ratio though, more power at all rpm, increased turbo spool, better off boost performance, more low end torque.... I could keep thinking of ways to say "the engine will perform better, everywhere" but you get the idea. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Well if the motor is built then it's built. 

There are many good reasons for higher compression ratio though, more power at all rpm, increased turbo spool, better off boost performance, more low end torque.... I could keep thinking of ways to say "the engine will perform better, everywhere" but you get the idea. 

Yeah, i was sitting here and realise that. Well this car got really shitty.. wrong turbo setup, wrong pistons, ecu, etc etc..

 

i guess i have to ask the engine builder about this, cause for some reason he installed them and this guy is really good with what he's doing. 
 

Edited by reallyspeedly
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turbos are fine, just a bit old school as the hipsters have diluted their gtr purity and gone for singles. They are still good units, however and the blokes with ponytails and beige Volvo dailies can get stuffed.

‘The ecu is a good ecu. You just need a good tuna to tune it. My point wasn’t to put down the setup just to highlight you need someone familiar with rb’s and their idiosyncrasies.

.3:1 isn’t earth shattering on the cr. Certainly nothing E85 won’t compensate for in spades if you go that way.

So yeah don’t get negative about it. It will work fine and be loads of fun. FWIW I’ve got -5 turbos and a Link ecu.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
    • Stock R33 boost control, with the exhaust, and FMIC done, will boost creep. There is no tuning around it if it is the factory boost solenoid.   If it has an aftermarket electronic boost controller, the settings/mapping can be altered in it.   Oil could be anything as mentioned, however did it ever do it before you did the turbo swap? How much and how often did you drive the car before the swap?   I'm hinging on too much oil supply, or it's not draining properly.   To check, pull the air outlet off the turbo. Is it full of oil? Drop the exhaust at the turbo, does it appears to be oiled/coked? Now pull turbo and check the exhaust manifold, does it appears oiled and coked the same way?   Secondly, the PCV could even be stuffed / not functioning properly and will cause blowing of blue smoke.
×
×
  • Create New...