Jump to content
SAU Community

GT-R Front Torque Display on IC-7

SLVRBAKSLPZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure that's really true, there are 4 wires shown on the diagram and its very hard to read. 2 wires are for the g meter reading and the other 2 power and earth, but I'm not sure which of those would be useful as an AVI for an ECU.

I've been meaning to sort this out for mine too, so it would be good to hear from anyone who has it working

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

If one is power, and one is earth, they would be readily findable with MM. Then the other 2 are the signal and its likely signal earth.

Notwithstanding that - this is the snip from the R32 wiring diagram.

image.thumb.png.336159d5dd74c774f7974f452fc4249f.png

The wire numbers are reasonably well identified and the call outs to 30 and 35 go to terminals 44 and 45 on the E-TS control unit. Seems simple enough. Should be quite similar on the 33.

  • Like 2
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thinking even when finding the proper wiring, the problem then comes with the display value in the ICC software.  Im not sure of the proper value to choose from. the Haltech as it doesnt have a value for Kg/m^2 (torque). I think the Haltech would have to have a display unit option for Kg/m^2 or lbs.

Anyone have a Haltech connection? I'll slide them a $5 for R&D cost lol

 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

For the calibration, I'd just log to get the highest voltage the signal delivers, then call that "50%". It's not like there is any real accuracy in the gauge, the value sent from the ATTESSA control unit is just an intended target, not an actual value delivered by a 30 year old, worn system.

  • Like 1
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From Haltech:

Thank you for reaching out! 
 
"Now that we have a proper ATTESA control function, this will be added. 
What I have done in the past is use a generic to follow the ATTESA function output and generate a 0-100% channel in the iC-7, so you can see how much power is being sent to the front. 0 being RWD only, and 100% being as close to 50/50 as it can get."
SLVRBAKSLPZ Collaborator

SLVRBAKSLPZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Duncan said:

Good on them for quick response. I don't suppose they confirmed the dash wire pin too?

They didnt provide a pinout or ETA for a firmware patch with this update.

alexj Contributor

alexj

Posted
Posted

I have tested the front torque gauge on the bench, the input from the ATTESA ecu is 0-5v.

There are four terminals. As  suggested above there is a fixed 12v across one pair of opposite screw terminals and the "sensor" 0-5v and sensor ground on the other two terminals. 

The copper track on the plastic "circuitboard" leading to the sensor 0-5v terminal is labelled "ETS" from memory (on the R32).

The calibration units for the display on the ic7 dont matter really but you could use 0-50% or 0-288psi on a r32. If its a r33 then it would be 10-50% or 25-288psi because of the minimum pressure they run (that i guess isnt shown on the gauge).

Based on my tests the front torque gauge meet doesnt totally accurately reflect the front wheel torque or centre clutch pressure in some conditions like the "fast start" behaviour when stationary, when the guage doesnt show that the centre clutch has been activated. But its close enough unless you are data logging for the track in which case drill/trap a pressure sensor on the back of the transfer case.

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...