Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you do this....

2 hours ago, nitznair said:

Better to get an engineer on board from the get go.

...then you don't have to worry so much about this....

3 hours ago, nitznair said:

if there are any issues arising from the conversion, that are picked during the certification process, the conversion shop can rectify them there and then

Besides, if it were me, I'd be wanting to know I had a shop close to home that is useful for such things anyway.

Mod plate won't help you in NSW. Hardest part of getting engineered in NSW is passing emissions. Engineer that did my r34 stopped doing engineers certs so won't be able to help you there sorry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13 minutes ago, MrRx7s3 said:

Mod plate won't help you in NSW. Hardest part of getting engineered in NSW is passing emissions. Engineer that did my r34 stopped doing engineers certs so won't be able to help you there sorry.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Damn man! Stock cats should pass emissions aye? Do you know of any other "trusted" engineers mate? 

Man my r34 was basically stock and failed with stock cat by a mile, ended up getting a euro 5 spec cat installed and just passed... also before you go for the test go for a nice spirited 30-45 minute drive get the cat nice and hot.

even the bloke at the testing centre was telling me that this law is pathetic, they want a 20+ year old car to pass emissions as if it were brand new, he also said that if you get a brand new car put a few hundred kms on it and it will fail emissions... I'll shoot my engineer a message see if he knows someone, he was great very helpful and half the price of everyone else.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6 minutes ago, MrRx7s3 said:

Man my r34 was basically stock and failed with stock cat by a mile, ended up getting a euro 5 spec cat installed and just passed... also before you go for the test go for a nice spirited 30-45 minute drive get the cat nice and hot.

even the bloke at the testing centre was telling me that this law is pathetic, they want a 20+ year old car to pass emissions as if it were brand new, he also said that if you get a brand new car put a few hundred kms on it and it will fail emissions... I'll shoot my engineer a message see if he knows someone, he was great very helpful and half the price of everyone else.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ohhhh it has to pass current emissions standards? That's f**ked! Lol. Mines a 2003 V35 Skyline, thats going to be LS swapped 😂😂

That would be really helpful bro. Do let me know if he replies please. 

9 hours ago, nitznair said:

Ohhhh it has to pass current emissions standards? That's f**ked! Lol. Mines a 2003 V35 Skyline, thats going to be LS swapped 😂😂

That would be really helpful bro. Do let me know if he replies please. 

No it doesn't. It has to meet the standards that was in place at the time the vehicle was constructed. 

If your car was, I think, older then 1985, then you don't need an emissions test as there were no emissions standards/requirements at that time. 

If you are having trouble passing emissions, have a chat with a good tuner. It's not 'hard' to pass emissions, the car just has to be setup to pass emissions....  again this just adds to the overall cost involved in getting your certification. 

I am 100% confident that I could tune/setup a skyline to pass emissions and I'm not a professional tuner by trade.

21 hours ago, MrRx7s3 said:

Mod plate won't help you in NSW. Hardest part of getting engineered in NSW is passing emissions. Engineer that did my r34 stopped doing engineers certs so won't be able to help you there sorry.

I once hinted that a supercharged engine would probably fail (because of emissions) and man did i get burnt by an angry member.

PS: you may wish to edit your post and remove all the carriage returns. I had to take it out of the above quote.

Edited by Vee37
4 minutes ago, nitznair said:

Would putting on a bunch of catalytic converters lower emissions? 

Say for example you have 4 cats on your exhaust, instead of the usual 2

No, the cat needs to come up to temperature before it works. Plugging up the exhaust with multiple cats will not help you.

Just get a good quality euro 5 or 6, 400+ cell cat and you'll be fine.

17 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

No, the cat needs to come up to temperature before it works. Plugging up the exhaust with multiple cats will not help you.

Just get a good quality euro 5 or 6, 400+ cell cat and you'll be fine.

And then once you pass emissions, get a custom straight pipe done aye? 🤣

Once you get the engineers, its just doing pink slips yearly and rego? No more dramas yeah? 

correct, except importantly you can get defected at any time if the police *think* your car may not be legal, engineered or not. You will need to have the car re-inspected if so which would include checking back to the engineered details

2 minutes ago, Duncan said:

correct, except importantly you can get defected at any time if the police *think* your car may not be legal, engineered or not. You will need to have the car re-inspected if so which would include checking back to the engineered details

Ahhh gotcha. Yep no silly things like dark tints, slammed to the ground, overly loud exhaust, driving like a dumb flamin mongrel etc aye 🤣🤣. Just try to look and drive as "stock" as possible 😉🤣🤣

2 hours ago, nitznair said:

Yep no silly things like

2 hours ago, nitznair said:

a custom straight pipe

You would be best to retain a cat. A nice big low cell count cat will do something to clean up the exhaust and largely prevent the big black stain that would be a giveaway to the above if you just had a 1 cell cat.

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You would be best to retain a cat. A nice big low cell count cat will do something to clean up the exhaust and largely prevent the big black stain that would be a giveaway to the above if you just had a 1 cell cat.

Ohh that's good advice man. Like a 100 cell or something aye? 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...