Jump to content
SAU Community

Driling oil feed in 23U AWD block?

JarrettL

By JarrettL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JarrettL Contributor

JarrettL

Posted
Posted

Alright, I've held off from posting this because it doesn't seem to make any sense and I know it's a topic that was beat to death and back two decades ago and then again after that.

I have an AWD 23U block from an ENR34 that was NA from the factory. I'm rebuilding it with a turbo NEO head and ARP studs to sell it on so I can move on to a different engine build, and I'm stumped on the oil feed. Conventional logic, as I understand it, is that the NA blocks are tapped for the oil feed from the factory, but don't drilled through into the passage. This block seems to have a small hole withing the M12 threaded hole that goes fairly deep into the block material. So it would seem at a glance to be done in this application. Only, this engine has never been turbocharged, and I didn't remove a plug from this hole when tearing it down. Does the hole need to go even further than the depth I've shown here with the drill bit? Am I missing something?

PXL_20230325_222022189.jpg

PXL_20230325_222030450.jpg

PXL_20230325_222148334.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484554-driling-oil-feed-in-23u-awd-block/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, FiXtUrE said:

Measure the hole from which welch plug you’re going to remove/tap into. Earls fittings will braided lines should do the job, depending on the hole size.

I don't think that is good advice, if you attach a turbo oil feed to a welch plug you will get coolant, not oil in most cases.

In this case the oil feed seems to be there, it is just a question of making sure is connected right through.

  • Thanks 1
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, FiXtUrE said:

What remove Welch plug, add helicoil ( which will shorten/lower the thread size though for the fitting ) Otherwise tap a thread into the existing hole.

Mate, I don't know what is going on with your posts, but I can only think one 1 welch plug in an rb that goes to an oil gallery and it is not externally accessible (behind the oil pump). There is another in the rear of the head but it is to a void not a pressure source. 

Please post a pic with exactly which welch plug you think would be suitable for use as a turbo oil feed.

To OP, I don't have a disassembled block handy, but I believe the oil galleries are on the right side of the block, so yes it could be a pretty long passage. It looks like your sump is off so spin it over and have a look

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I know the smart choice is to let this go, but FYI those welch plugs go to the water jacket and have coolant behind them, so would not be great as a turbo oil feed. OP is holding a drill, not pointing at the welch plug. Per their first pic, they are asking about the factory threaded hole in the block between cylinders 3 and 4

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, NZ-GTT said:

You may want to add another fool to your ignore list!

Considered it! It seems that our rocket surgeon has taken himself off to be an expert on Aliexpress lip extensions and body kit bullshit, in a part of the forum that I never visit. He hasn't been seen in the useful part of the forum for a week or so.

TurboTapin Experienced

TurboTapin

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Considered it! It seems that our rocket surgeon has taken himself off to be an expert on Aliexpress lip extensions and body kit bullshit, in a part of the forum that I never visit. He hasn't been seen in the useful part of the forum for a week or so.

FiXtUrE after reading your comment.

image.thumb.jpeg.e6372facc3be052ac36d294ccd2646fe.jpeg

 

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...