Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

A local motor trimmer can usually redo a steering wheel at a reasonable cost. I say "reasonable", but nothing involving manual labour is really reasonable compared to buying a new Momo or similar.

Yeah thats i what i was thinking, prob still the best option, BYO cover and pay for install

1 hour ago, ChrisW434 said:

BYO cover and pay for install

I don't know where you would get a cover that you would prefer a trimmer to use over the cover that a trimmer would build from scratch from your choice of nice leather, or alcantara or whatever. Keep in mind that with the wheel you showed, you have to re-pad and cover the entire thing (except the hornpad/airbag part), not just the rim. The rim and the spokes are all the same thing. They all need to be under the same sewn expanse of fabric (or plasti-rubber, or whatever you do on top), with seamless padding from the edges of the spokes out onto the rim.

There are a number of crowds in Oz that speciailise in rebuilding steering wheels. They can redo them to factory spec, or you could go leather. Just do a google for "steering wheel restoration australia".

20 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I don't know where you would get a cover that you would prefer a trimmer to use over the cover that a trimmer would build from scratch from your choice of nice leather, or alcantara or whatever. Keep in mind that with the wheel you showed, you have to re-pad and cover the entire thing (except the hornpad/airbag part), not just the rim. The rim and the spokes are all the same thing. They all need to be under the same sewn expanse of fabric (or plasti-rubber, or whatever you do on top), with seamless padding from the edges of the spokes out onto the rim.

There are a number of crowds in Oz that speciailise in rebuilding steering wheels. They can redo them to factory spec, or you could go leather. Just do a google for "steering wheel restoration australia".

Well that actually sounds better. I'll chase that option up, happy to pay for a quality job. Thanks for the advice!

4 hours ago, ChrisW434 said:

Whoa, not so sure about that option 😄

So....you think you will get one covered for less than $600....that's lineball IMO.  Do your homework, but it is hard to find a business that does Skyline type wheels.  We fall into a black hole that nobody cares about/  There are restorers that work on older sold wheels for Chevies and EH Holdens etc, then there are those that work on R35/Porsche/BMW wheels.  I found it very hard to find anyone that works on our era cars...nobody seems interested.

Try a few upholstery businesses, but I'd doubt you will get it that much cheaper, as GTSBoy said, labour isn't cheap.  And a Momo in good condition will set you back over $1,000.  Remember you will need to keep your airbag setup.....and that raises the cost.

 

59 minutes ago, tridentt150v said:

So....you think you will get one covered for less than $600....that's lineball IMO.  Do your homework, but it is hard to find a business that does Skyline type wheels.  We fall into a black hole that nobody cares about/  There are restorers that work on older sold wheels for Chevies and EH Holdens etc, then there are those that work on R35/Porsche/BMW wheels.  I found it very hard to find anyone that works on our era cars...nobody seems interested.

Try a few upholstery businesses, but I'd doubt you will get it that much cheaper, as GTSBoy said, labour isn't cheap.  And a Momo in good condition will set you back over $1,000.  Remember you will need to keep your airbag setup.....and that raises the cost.

 

I'm not sure about what the work would cost locally yet, hence the question and request for info. I don't know if $600 is realistic here in Aust, just not keen to get the wheel sent to Singapore (or anywhere overseas for that matter).
 

Trying to see what others have done successfully. Seems like there's few different ways to go about it, but quality work isn't cheap, i do agree.

Maybe a company like the one below...?

36EEF2C6-8F4F-452C-87D5-0E30F71D2200.jpeg

Edited by ChrisW434

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...