Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been getting ready to finish my car which has been sitting around for ages. It was originally a -7 bolt on kind of deal with a built 2.6 in it. Just going to be used for fun weekend driving and looking purty.

Ive been reading a bit on the newer turbo ranges that have come out but most of them are targeted at big power these days and the bolt on upgrade stuff is all gtx2860 cores on old turbine housings which don't seem to work that well. 

I came across the gbc22-350 mentioned in a thread on here but can't find much other info of any installed on an RB. Lots of them on miatas and smaller displacement stuff where people seem to be happy with them.

 

From a compressor map point of view they look very similar to the -7 but don't fall over as much at higher boost pressures.

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/garrett-boost-club-line-gbc22-350/

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/gt2860r/

 

Looks like it would need some new intake piping to fit on the 26 and plug up the water cooling pipes etc.

 

Thoughts on this instead of -7s? Would be running a flex tune so potentially could push these harder on e85 than the -7s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484635-gbc22-350-instead-of-7s-rb26/
Share on other sites

what ever you do dont go single, fitting a single to a 100k gtr in this current time is regarded. 

what you should be doing is fitting hks and nismo parts, your only real option in hks2530. click buy now install tune to 550 weekend horsepower, it lags when it lags who cares.

  • Haha 2
  • Confused 1
  • Sad 1

Yeah wasn't really about going single. Ive read plenty on it but it's not something I want for my car.

Was more looking to see if anyone here had seen results with these new smaller turbos. Lots of new compressor and turbine tech in the last few years but not a lot of that finding its way into smaller aftermarket turbo's that I've seen.

Even less being experimented with other than varying sizes of singles and people messing around with the GTX compressors on old exhaust housings.

Just looking at wheel sizes and compressor maps these look very close to -7s but still working at high pressure ratios.

 

On 4/28/2023 at 10:51 AM, Beelzebub89 said:

Been getting ready to finish my car which has been sitting around for ages. It was originally a -7 bolt on kind of deal with a built 2.6 in it. Just going to be used for fun weekend driving and looking purty.

Ive been reading a bit on the newer turbo ranges that have come out but most of them are targeted at big power these days and the bolt on upgrade stuff is all gtx2860 cores on old turbine housings which don't seem to work that well. 

I came across the gbc22-350 mentioned in a thread on here but can't find much other info of any installed on an RB. Lots of them on miatas and smaller displacement stuff where people seem to be happy with them.

 

From a compressor map point of view they look very similar to the -7 but don't fall over as much at higher boost pressures.

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/garrett-boost-club-line-gbc22-350/

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/gt2860r/

 

Looks like it would need some new intake piping to fit on the 26 and plug up the water cooling pipes etc.

 

Thoughts on this instead of -7s? Would be running a flex tune so potentially could push these harder on e85 than the -7s

They are not direct bolt-on like -7s. Compare the two bolt pattern diagrams and just by shape alone they aren’t the same. I would not run a purely oil cooled turbo either, the CHRA is going to run hotter and put more heat into the oil which is already challenged in the RBs.

If you’re going to change manifolds and all this other stuff to make turbos work why not just run a single EFR7163 with twin scroll? If you just want higher efficiency at high boost vs -7s you’ve basically described -9s. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...