Jump to content
SAU Community

GBC22-350 instead of -7s? RB26


Recommended Posts

Been getting ready to finish my car which has been sitting around for ages. It was originally a -7 bolt on kind of deal with a built 2.6 in it. Just going to be used for fun weekend driving and looking purty.

Ive been reading a bit on the newer turbo ranges that have come out but most of them are targeted at big power these days and the bolt on upgrade stuff is all gtx2860 cores on old turbine housings which don't seem to work that well. 

I came across the gbc22-350 mentioned in a thread on here but can't find much other info of any installed on an RB. Lots of them on miatas and smaller displacement stuff where people seem to be happy with them.

 

From a compressor map point of view they look very similar to the -7 but don't fall over as much at higher boost pressures.

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/garrett-boost-club-line-gbc22-350/

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/gt2860r/

 

Looks like it would need some new intake piping to fit on the 26 and plug up the water cooling pipes etc.

 

Thoughts on this instead of -7s? Would be running a flex tune so potentially could push these harder on e85 than the -7s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what ever you do dont go single, fitting a single to a 100k gtr in this current time is regarded. 

what you should be doing is fitting hks and nismo parts, your only real option in hks2530. click buy now install tune to 550 weekend horsepower, it lags when it lags who cares.

  • Haha 2
  • Confused 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah wasn't really about going single. Ive read plenty on it but it's not something I want for my car.

Was more looking to see if anyone here had seen results with these new smaller turbos. Lots of new compressor and turbine tech in the last few years but not a lot of that finding its way into smaller aftermarket turbo's that I've seen.

Even less being experimented with other than varying sizes of singles and people messing around with the GTX compressors on old exhaust housings.

Just looking at wheel sizes and compressor maps these look very close to -7s but still working at high pressure ratios.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/28/2023 at 10:51 AM, Beelzebub89 said:

Been getting ready to finish my car which has been sitting around for ages. It was originally a -7 bolt on kind of deal with a built 2.6 in it. Just going to be used for fun weekend driving and looking purty.

Ive been reading a bit on the newer turbo ranges that have come out but most of them are targeted at big power these days and the bolt on upgrade stuff is all gtx2860 cores on old turbine housings which don't seem to work that well. 

I came across the gbc22-350 mentioned in a thread on here but can't find much other info of any installed on an RB. Lots of them on miatas and smaller displacement stuff where people seem to be happy with them.

 

From a compressor map point of view they look very similar to the -7 but don't fall over as much at higher boost pressures.

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/garrett-boost-club-line-gbc22-350/

 

https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/gt2860r/

 

Looks like it would need some new intake piping to fit on the 26 and plug up the water cooling pipes etc.

 

Thoughts on this instead of -7s? Would be running a flex tune so potentially could push these harder on e85 than the -7s

They are not direct bolt-on like -7s. Compare the two bolt pattern diagrams and just by shape alone they aren’t the same. I would not run a purely oil cooled turbo either, the CHRA is going to run hotter and put more heat into the oil which is already challenged in the RBs.

If you’re going to change manifolds and all this other stuff to make turbos work why not just run a single EFR7163 with twin scroll? If you just want higher efficiency at high boost vs -7s you’ve basically described -9s. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure, bromance with common shit box interests.
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Aren't we already on one? SAU unforgettable bromance.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...