Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at upgrading my brakes whilst my engine is being built 

Is it really worth spending the $$ for a big brake kit on my 34?

or would a good set of DBA Slotted rotors (t3 4000) and pads suffice (dixcel type z or project mu F236 HC+)

Any other recommendations for rotors?

I mean going to 355 will look nice but is it worth the $$?

For reference will be buying work sp13 18s

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484651-r34-gtt-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, YD34GTT said:

Looking at upgrading my brakes whilst my engine is being built 

Is it really worth spending the $$ for a big brake kit on my 34?

or would a good set of DBA Slotted rotors (t3 4000) and pads suffice (dixcel type z or project mu F236 HC+)

Any other recommendations for rotors?

I mean going to 355 will look nice but is it worth the $$?

For reference will be buying work sp13 18s

 

DBA 4000 is fine, as are PMu HC+. I wouldn't bother with a BBK unless you're taking it to the track. That's really where these cars need the BBK, they're heavy and don't have enough thermal capacity from the factory unlike a modern sporty car.

17 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

For street there is certainly no need for anything larger than the 310s on the R34. A few years ago you could preach a GTR upgrade to 324, when the calipers could be bought for reasonable coin. But not any more.

For a 34 which will be built for 500kw and maybe do a track day once a year BBK are over kill you would say? 

 

Might even consider going project MU rotors over DBA if anyone knows if they're better than DBA

29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

For street there is certainly no need for anything larger than the 310s on the R34. A few years ago you could preach a GTR upgrade to 324, when the calipers could be bought for reasonable coin. But not any more.

Do the dba t3 5000 324 directly bolt on to the gtt ?

1 hour ago, YD34GTT said:

For a 34 which will be built for 500kw and maybe do a track day once a year BBK are over kill you would say? 

 

Might even consider going project MU rotors over DBA if anyone knows if they're better than DBA

It really depends on how you plan to use the car on track. Do you want to do 20 minutes sessions on R comp tyres on the track flat out the entire time? This will need plenty of cooling upgrades and the BBK will be 100% needed for this scenario. 

Are you happy to do 2 or 3 laps flat out then let the car cool down before going flat out again? This scenario is much easier to achieve and could be handled on upgraded rotors/pads no problem.

  • Thanks 1
4 hours ago, YD34GTT said:

Do the dba t3 5000 324 directly bolt on to the gtt ?

Any of the R chassis rotors will go on any of the other cars. The R34s used 14mm caliper bolts, so you have to make sure that your Vspec calipers suit that (ie not earlier ones), or be prepared to make suitable inserts for them.

But this would be senseless, because GTR Brembos cost nearly as much a proper BBK upgrade these days.

  • Thanks 1
8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Any of the R chassis rotors will go on any of the other cars. The R34s used 14mm caliper bolts, so you have to make sure that your Vspec calipers suit that (ie not earlier ones), or be prepared to make suitable inserts for them.

But this would be senseless, because GTR Brembos cost nearly as much a proper BBK upgrade these days.

Yeah i did some digging and figured so

Might just go upgraded rotors and pads for now and if I increase track work I'll look into going either BBK or go down the road of using alpha omega adaptors and go evo brakes 

Thanks for the info

For reference, my race car (only has 300ish kw) does 20 min sessions, sprint races, enduro races 2hrs+, tarmac rallies up and down long hill runs etc etc on standard size GTR rotors (324mm). It does have slightly larger calipers and pads (porsche 4 spot) than factory but really it comes down to disc and pad selection.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...