Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, was wondering if anyone can help with my issue would be much appreciated.

r34 gt4 4wd non turbo originally

installed stagea 2.5 turbo 4wd engine into r34

got it running just fine with some niggly issues

few questions

idles at 900rpm cold or hot, ideally when cold should idle high and then drop. It sits consistently no missfire or cut off. Power to idle control valve is present, tps set correctly, diagnostics code 55 no faults. No engine light also.

 

currently using stagea turbo ecu would that cause a conflict?

 

injector resistor, not installed is this important? Will it need to be installed?

 

4wd light is on also , front abs sensors need replacing as they broke and are not on vehicle hence abs light is also on. 

 

Thank you in advance any support would really appreciate.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

currently using stagea turbo ecu would that cause a conflict?

No. Better than GTT ECU which would have a shit fit about not seeing the TCS system. Besides which, it's the right ECU for the engine, yeah?

 

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

idles at 900rpm cold or hot, ideally when cold should idle high and then drop. It sits consistently no missfire or cut off. Power to idle control valve is present, tps set correctly, diagnostics code 55 no faults. No engine light also.

If it's all working electrically, then expect that the IACV is dirty and stuck so that it won't close enough to drop the idle.

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

injector resistor, not installed is this important? Will it need to be installed?

What injector resistor? There is not supposed to be one.

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

4wd light is on also , front abs sensors need replacing as they broke and are not on vehicle hence abs light is also on. 

Well.....

 

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

 

If it's all working electrically, then expect that the IACV is dirty and stuck so that it won't close enough to drop the idle.

 

Step one would be to unplug the IACV and see how low the idle drops. If the bypass screw isn't closed enough, it won't matter how well the IACV is working.

 

I do agree with pulling IACV and cleaning it though, would do it either way. Really should have been done before engine install into car.

Hi there is power to idle control valve, issue is no cold start, it starts at 900rpm and will stay there.

 

changed idle control with another same issue

 

injector resistor is found on gtt models and stagea. Gt four non existent, with this car now turbo would it need this wiring in

47 minutes ago, Mussy said:

Hi there is power to idle control valve, issue is no cold start, it starts at 900rpm and will stay there.

OK, so the opposite problem of what I gathered (because I didn't read your OP properly). You see, 900 is high, so I presumed your problem was that it wasn't dropping down from 900 to the correct idle speed of 600-650.

So you actually have 2 problems.

The cold start on the Neo IACV is a wax pellet thermostat thingo that is heated by coolant. If you do not have coolant flow to it, then it simply won't close. So idle will stay high. The coolant path in these things can get plugged up. I had to extensively clean mine out after the engine swap to get it to flow coolant. Was full of red rusty deposits (as was the whole engine, which took ~5 coolant flushes to come clean). So....have a look.

Now, if the cold start valve is fully open, then that might explain the lack of dropping to proper idle speed. The ECU could be dialling the stepper back to minimum opening and not gaining control because the cold start is just too much for it.

52 minutes ago, Mussy said:

injector resistor is found on gtt models and stagea

yeah. nah.

Here's the top part of the R34 ECU and engine wiring diagram. The injectors are on the left. See the resistor? No. I can't either. High impedence injectors just don't have them.

image.thumb.png.d871624fcda52fb29417787935a3b6b3.png

 

1 hour ago, Mussy said:

This is the resistor found in engine bay that Iam askin about 

IMG_9841.thumb.png.ea92d34e225bd7e22198e03ac30df6ee.png

Just to be clear, was that in your car or is it a sample pic?

Looks to me like an injector resistor pack

Either way, you need the wiring loom and engine to match, and it sounds like they do (plus, the engine is running OK). Therefore, I would not worry about anything that was in the car for the old engine setup

sorry guys dont know how to respond to comments on here thanks for the wiring diagram, im confused as i have r34 gtt here with fuel resistor so i assumed i would need it for this car also.

 

it seems to be working just fine just want to be on safe side. Just need to sort this cold start issue out need it to idle high and then come down once warm

I would like to point out that the RB26 injector resistor linked by OP is a rip off. US$165, but can get them here in Oz for AU$150 from Just Jap.

RB26 cars have injector resistors because they use low impedance injectors and the ECU actually wants to see high impedance. Nissan did some weird shit there to get the injectors to do the peak & hold stuff. There are actually 6 resistors in there. One for each injector, and that's why there are multiple wires in the lead and plug.

All other RBs use high impedance injectors. Therefore no resistor.

The resistor that you will see in the engine bay in other RB engined cars only has 2 wires. That one is the dropping resistor for the auto trans, as Ben said, and as shown in the manual on page AT-7.

image.thumb.png.1a2841bad3f21db1e7cc311677bc89c2.png

  • Like 2

Hi alot of trouble shooting later, repaced the dump valve back to standard idles better no cutting off, still no cold start, changed iacv, coilpacks, theottle body, iat sensor, as inahve two sets of everything still no change.

 

now i may think it is ecu related as the ecu installed into r34 is  from a neo stage 4wd rb25det but it is auto my car is manual from factory.

 

Thanks for the reply guys dont know how to

reapons individually yet 🙈

 

attached is picture of ecu

IMG_0001.jpeg

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Have you followed my other recommendation? Coolant flow?

Hi yes fully cleaned, will remove today again and clean, have noticed when setting idle learn when i connect the tps plug revs increase ever so slightly,

will be checking neutral switch to pin 39 on ecu to ensure this is wired

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...