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Defi Oil Pressure Gauge to HKS Oil Sandwich Adapter

itsforandres

By itsforandres,
in Car Audio & Electrical

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itsforandres Enthusiast

itsforandres

Posted
Posted

Hello! I have a deli oil pressure gauge that is 1/8 PT, that was connected to a greddy oil relocation kit that used the same fitting. i just installed an HKS oil cooler kit, which also has a sandwich adapter. According to the specs it's 1/8 PT, but they don't seem to work together. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there a conversion piece that is needed in order for this work?

according to the greddy website, their sandwich adapter is 1/8 NPT, which is strange that it would work without any issues since the gauge is allegedly PT, not NPT.

 

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

The tapered pipe standards are a bit of a mess since they almost kinda fit each other.  I thought Japanese fittings were BSPT, but my good friend ChatGPT agrees with you that they are PT (they are probably interchangeable in practice).

It is possible that the previous setup was mismatched (PT in NPT), it is not guaranteed they will leak if installed tight enough and with sealant but it is a terrible idea.

And yes, you can get BSPT / NPT adapters, brazillions of options but you need to consider your available space where it is going

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    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

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      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
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      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
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      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
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      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
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