Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

New member here.

Im looking at doing a brake upgrade on my 1998 r34 gt coupe (non turbo)

I'm looking at R33 GTST brakes.

Can anyone confirm if R33 GTST brake callipers are direct bolt onto R34 GT?? (front and rear)

Even if the fronts fit and the rears don't or other way around.

If not, can anyone confirm which bigger Nissan brakes are?

Looking for any information I can get to make my life easier.

I know there has been discussion around this but unfortunately I have not found a definite answer.

Thanks guys

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/484775-r33-gtst-brake-callipers-on-r34-gt/
Share on other sites

100% compatibility between R33 GTST and R34 GT. Both ends. Info is definitely out there, but people somehow being confused despite it being confirmed many times is somewhat funny.

The R34 GTT has larger bolt holes. It can be fixed by drilling 14mm bolt holes instead of of the 12 that the R33GTST and R34 GT has.

  • Like 1
On 7/1/2023 at 5:23 PM, calebwatttts34 said:

Different bolt sizes

33gtst fronts are m12

r34 gt and gtt fronts are m14

So they do line up!

 

As per Gtsboy you have 2 options. I still have some threaded Inserts as per what gtsboy used.

On 7/1/2023 at 8:30 PM, calebwatttts34 said:

My brother in Christ you drive a commodore, shut up 

Cmon man. Dont make me point out you drive a non turbo rb25.

 

 

Anyway good work upgrading brakes.  Given enough run up those rb25s can build a little bit of speed!

  • Haha 1
10 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Then you don't have what you say you have, one way or the other.

That.

Maybe you have a GTT Knuckle or something along those lines. Or maybe R34 GT's really have a 14mm hole, though I didn't have that issue when I directly bolted R33 GTST brakes onto my R34 directly. I did have to drill the hub out to 14mm later though to fit a R34 GTT based kit.

3 hours ago, calebwatttts34 said:

Not interested in threaded inserts.

 I asked if they were straight bolt on. That isn’t straight bolt on

It is so close to "bolt on" that it doesn't even bear discussion. The original threaded inserts push out with almost no effort and the new ones go in with the same total lack of effort. You cannot even tell them apart afterwards, and you can put the original inserts in your back pocket for later if you feel the need.

Hell. I even have the 14mm inserts from my R34 calipers here, in a box, from, I dunno Ben...how many years ago is it that I put them on? 5 years? I could walk out to the shed and find them in less than 60s.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

No-one seems to have considered that R34 rotors are thinner than R33 (26mm vs 30mm). I suspect there will be a problem that the pistons might pop out if the pads wear too thin.

I would not bother upgrading the rears - the majority of braking is done by the front brakes. I suggest upgrading the fronts to R32 GT-R rotors / calipers. The rotors are larger diameter (296mm) , and thicker (32mm) than the R34 setup. At the least, GTSt rotors / calipers (280mm dia, 30mm thick).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...