Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of the very few oil flush additives that I recommend is Wynns which is detergent based (like in the oil already). Stuff like Nulon and other cheap and nasties are just kerosene or other harsh solvents in a bottle which just makes the oil very thin. Also these formulations can be very aggressive on seals and can cause your engine to spring leaks (like Nulon did on my last car).

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As i couldnt find the right grade of Mobil 1 to use, im trying the Castrol Formula R 10W-60. So far i have to say very happy as even the knock level seems to be 10-15 lower?!?!?! Will see how the car goes at the next track day...im sure it will be fine, but my understanding is Mobil 1 is typically regarded as having the best stability at high temps

I've said it before but I'll say it again just in case people haven't read it yet. I used Castrol Formula R for the first 4 or 5 oil changes (every 5000km). Then I swapped to Motul 8100, and suddenly the exhaust ran absolutely FILTHY. Then after about 1000km, a lifter got blocked. The Motul had done such a good job of cleaning the engine that it dislodged the large chunks of crap that had accumulated in the engine when using Formula R and whatever the previous owner had used before it.

So while I'm not going to actually say that Castrol added gunk into my engine causing a lifter to block, I *will* say that at the very minimum, it did absolutely nothing to help clean out the inside of the engine from whatever unknown oils were used previously. If you really want to use Castrol, I would recommend doing an engine flush between services to gradually reduce gunk buildup. The Castrol is doing jack-all in this regard for you even though as a supposed synthetic, it should be keeping it clean.

Since then I used Motul 8100 in my last 2 changes and the exhaust is now running much cleaner due to the insides of the engine now being much cleaner. And no hint of any blocked lifters.

I thought of using the 300V COMPETITION 15W50.

But which 8100 are you running 0W30 , 0W40 , 5W30 , 5W40? None of those grades suit my thinking for an oil that i will use in my turbo car at the track

This is the link to the oil i have always used, but cant find anywhere in Melb that sells it.:)http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...bil1_15W-50.asp

Up, up, and..... a question :)

My R32 GT-R is about to land after about five months storage, so its going to need the usual complete fluid flush. I am thinking Motul for the engine, Redline for the g/box, and probably one or other for the diffs.

Now for the question: which Motul should I go for? 8100 or 4100 seems to be the most popular choice, although some of you have suggested 300V. Unfortunately the Motul website is not very helpful (for me, at least) in making the differences obvious. Could someone spell it out for me?

Also, is there a Motul oil which has less aggressive cleaning agents than 8100? After JimX's experience, I am tempted to go with something with less cleaning agents for the first change, and then swap to something more aggressive later to make sure nothing gets clogged. Thoughts?

Cheers guys :P

You could have a chat to Nathan, see what he thinks. But as for flushing, there are some "engine flush" products around that you can run through, either that or run the 8100 and drop it after 500-1000klm to give it a chance to cleap things up. My gtr hadn't been looked after too well in jp and the oil that came out was pretty bad :P terribble actually

Guest RedLineGTR

The only grades of 8100 I have seen around my area have been the 5-40W rating that’s what I have been using for the past 14 months, it’s the closest thing I have found to a good synthetic oil unless yo go for the 300V series of Motul oils which are a 100% “genuine” synthetics made from esters.

Some things I have noticed when using Motul oils for the past 14 months, might be useful for some people…meh

When using Shell Helix Ultra 5-40w, Branded as a 100% synthetic oil and after using this for a while I noticed quiet a bit of black fouling on the exhaust tip (new cat back) of the cannon muffler (it just got black very quickly after a couple of good fangs).

After switching to Motul 8100 5-40w and giving my exhaust I polish the whole cannon on the outside and the 5inch tip (inside) on the 3.5inch cat back exhaust (got a bit carried away when cleaning) after 3 tank fulls of petrol the tip of the exhaust hasn’t even gotten dirty, looks like new and even recently getting a new exhaust it looks like new still after 4 weeks of use and fanging. The status of tuned had not be changed eg. Richer or leaner etc.

Can someone clarify the grade of 8100 they are using?

I'd like to know too. Also, where are people purchasing the stuff? Much variance in pricing between retailers (ie. is it worth the ring around, or just rock up to local oil supplier)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

I'm using 5/40 8100. $60 at UAS $65 most other places.

JustJap have it for $65 with a filter (although I'd rather buy a seperate filter).

Also since using 8100 my exhaust has been punching out a helluva lotta black stuff - I'm assuming it's just crap in the exhaust rather than from the engine but yeah I've done about 300km on it so I'll be changing it again and getting a new cat (the old one is tiny).

Again - I don't think it's the oil related but yeah, where I warm up my car there is a bike and the exhaust is about 10cm away from it and I noticed the other day it's been splattered hard with about 3-5mm of crap.. haha I think it's cos of some rain getting into the exhaust first then getting splattered out.. but it's pretty chunk.

My experience with the GTR (no remote oil cooler)is as follows,

Castrol R 10W-60 - Has good oil pressure showing on the gauge but fuel economy and performance seem to suffer marginally. Just feels less happy to rev. Worst thing about it was that it consistantly had the engine oil temp up around 100 degrees on constant highway speeds and was quick to go higher if pushing the car.

Mobil 1 10w-30 - Lower indicated oil pressure when warm but still acceptable. Revs easier but the biggest difference is that the oil temp sits around 85 degrees on the highway and is much slower to rise when the car is pushed hard. I am very specific about using the 10w-30 and not the other Mobil 1 types.

Personally, I feel far more comfortable with a little less indicated oil pressure but cooler running and more stable oil temp.

I've used all sorts of oil in all sorts of cars and they have always come out black (even with new cars) so its never been a concern for me. Only car that I've ever seen drop clean looking oil after a service was a holden ute that ran on LPG.

I cant fault the Mobil 1 but having said that would be keen to give the Redline stuff a try at some stage and see if theres a difference.

  • 4 months later...

Time to drag this one up again...

I'm about to do a change, have been running Motul 300v 15-50 for a year or so and have been pretty happy with the performance.

Some vic guys swear by Castrol Formula R 10-60 (i think) and am considering the change - alot of vic guys run it at the track with good results (or lack of blow ups?!?) and i'm preparing for another track day in April

I however have one sump's worth of 300v left waiting to go in... so what do I do, run the 300v or swap to Castrol for the track then back to 300v for the road?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...