Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was wondering if someone might be able to help me out. 

R33 GTR, everything is pretty much stock. 

For some reason while I'm lightly accelerating, it seems like my oem recirc valve is opening and closing making this constant whoosh sound. If I get on the pedal from that point it holds boost, but its really annoying when I'm cruising. If I'm cruising uphill, its bad enough that I have to pretty much floor it. It doesn't matter what gear I'm in. 

basically when I hit about 3k rpm I start hearing the whooshing noise and it wont let my turbo boost unless I get on the pedal. 

I cant imagine this being normal. 

I've also searched around and I cant really find information on anyone else having this issue. 

Has anyone else had an issue like this?

Edited by NINJA GTR

Sounds normal to me, OEM Nissan BOVs open as soon as you're below atmospheric and there's ever so slightly pressure being generated by the turbos.

You'll probably get the turbo shuffle too from the two turbos pushing towards a single hot pipe too.

You can easily determine if it is actually a BOV problem by blocking off both valves temporarily and seeing if the issue still occurs....a blanking plate from cutting up a coke can is the traditional method.

It might be the stock BOVs are done for? I don't think I experience this behavior which would be super obvious on expressway driving. ~3200 RPM going uphill getting into boost is really not unusual for these cars. It is very doughy around 3000 RPM.

Turbosmart makes direct replacements in the factory location that you can cap the atmospheric vents on as seen here: https://www.turbosmart.com/product/ts-0203-1072/

If you can actually diagnose it as failed I would probably go straight to those because they actually open all the way unlike the OEM valves which have surprisingly little travel.
 

Edited by joshuaho96
5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Sounds normal to me, OEM Nissan BOVs open as soon as you're below atmospheric and there's ever so slightly pressure being generated by the turbos.

You'll probably get the turbo shuffle too from the two turbos pushing towards a single hot pipe too.

Thanks for the response here.

Would getting a blow off valve (HKS SSQ) and recirculating it fix this issue?

2 minutes ago, Duncan said:

If you have an aftermarket ECU, a log of AFM, Boost and TPS might help. 

But frankly, a standard GTR is no response king compared to a modern turbo car

Thats exactly how it feels, lack of response. 

I was going to go with N1 turbos and run the PFC L Jetro and tune it for the time being. I am starting to think it might not fix it. 

Look for cracks in the signal lines running to the BOVs. They are long hoses and if you can vent enough air out of them (through cracks) you can cause a significant pressure difference between what the engine is seeing and what the BOV diaphragm is seeing.

900 year old Nissan OEM hoses lying in the bottom of the engine bay are as likely to be stuffed as anything else is.

3 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

It might be the stock BOVs are done for? I don't think I experience this behavior which would be super obvious on expressway driving. ~3200 RPM going uphill getting into boost is really not unusual for these cars. It is very doughy around 3000 RPM.

Turbosmart makes direct replacements in the factory location that you can cap the atmospheric vents on as seen here: https://www.turbosmart.com/product/ts-0203-1072/

If you can actually diagnose it as failed I would probably go straight to those because they actually open all the way unlike the OEM valves which have surprisingly little travel.
 

Got it, I'm glad I got a little bit of confirmation that a stock GTR should not feel like this. 

I will see if I can get aftermarket bov and recirculate it to see if it will make a difference. 

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Look for cracks in the signal lines running to the BOVs. They are long hoses and if you can vent enough air out of them (through cracks) you can cause a significant pressure difference between what the engine is seeing and what the BOV diaphragm is seeing.

900 year old Nissan OEM hoses lying in the bottom of the engine bay are as likely to be stuffed as anything else is.

I'll do this first. It seems easy enough. I will hunt for the BOV line and see if it needs to be replaced. 

I appreciate all the help here. This forum rocks. 

Just now, NINJA GTR said:

Got it, I'm glad I got a little bit of confirmation that a stock GTR should not feel like this. 

I will see if I can get aftermarket bov and recirculate it to see if it will make a difference. 

I agree with Duncan's advice which is start by capping off the the recirculating valves so they don't open and see if that fixes the issue. If that works you can start by replacing the rubber hoses. There's one hose that goes from the air chamber to the BOV in the fender which is going to be feeling for it blind. Then it branches off to a Y inside the fender and then two more hoses which shouldn't be too bad to figure out.

Keep in mind blocking the bypass valve will cause some weird behavior due to reversion so don't drive it like that too long.

2 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I agree with Duncan's advice which is start by capping off the the recirculating valves so they don't open and see if that fixes the issue. If that works you can start by replacing the rubber hoses. There's one hose that goes from the air chamber to the BOV in the fender which is going to be feeling for it blind. Then it branches off to a Y inside the fender and then two more hoses which shouldn't be too bad to figure out.

Keep in mind blocking the bypass valve will cause some weird behavior due to reversion so don't drive it like that too long.

is there a write up or a video of how to block off the bypass valves?

37 minutes ago, NINJA GTR said:

......I was going to go with N1 turbos and run the PFC L Jetro and tune it for the time being. I am starting to think it might not fix it. 

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power.

There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s

  • Like 3
48 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

And please don't get SSQVs

GOT IT! haha

32 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I just wanted to comment on this. I run genuine Nissan N1 turbos on the race car as I am only allowed to use factory parts. They are horrible, 270o journal bearing turbos which are both laggy and unreliable (to be fair, they were state of the art in 1993). They come on boost at about 4,000rpm which is not impossible in race use but is about 1,000-1,500 rpm laggier than a modern alternative for the same target power.

There are plenty of good aftermarket options for low mounted twins which will look factory, but spare yourself the pain and don't go genuine N1s

Ok sorry for the confusion they aren't the N1, they are the older garret ball bearing turbos. I believe the garret 2860R part number 707160-7. I am praying they do not lag. 

Edited by NINJA GTR
11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Inb4 Duncan has a sads

Convert to a single, twin scroll modern turbo.

Let's just skip the middleman here and convince BMW to make a mirrored version of their B58 that is somehow direct fit for RB applications.

  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...