Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, cabramatta said:

I'll chuck a clamp meter on it at the same time and figure out whats happening at different settings to get a good understanding.

Clamp meter will probably tell you lies. PWM DC looks a bit like AC (because the voltage is going up and down rapidly), but it is not AC because the voltage never goes negative and the current never reverses direction. But because it looks like AC, and it is happening at high frequency, at can cause wierd reactive effects. Just be warned that you might learn things that are....confusing. Because they aren't necessarily real.

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, cabramatta said:

Appreciate the detailed response! It's all new technology to me and your suggestion for reducing DC and finding sweet spots seems like a great approach.

 

I'll chuck a clamp meter on it at the same time and figure out whats happening at different settings to get a good understanding.

 

Will report back with my findings when I get around to it to help anyone in the future that will be in the same situation as me 😁

Clamp meter is pointless.

Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info.

What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank.

You want some, but not a lot.

You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.

 

So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge.

Set it up from that.

  • Like 1

This is what I've done, add DC until it meets my fuel pressure requirements and above 4500 at over 1bar of boost, I send its mum with 100% DC to both pumps.

I'll post up a table soon when I'm free.

  • Like 2

I remembered wrong, but was close though :D

1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely. 

I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.

 

image.thumb.png.1c1623e3769219d9c2f8f17438127da4.png

image.thumb.png.9ef061f6715608db66875f137d22781a.png

 

  • Like 3
20 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This is what I've done, add DC until it meets my fuel pressure requirements and above 4500 at over 1bar of boost, I send its mum with 100% DC to both pumps.

I'll post up a table soon when I'm free.

Hows your fuel temps? I had big issues with fuel temps running 2 285's.

13 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

Hows your fuel temps? I had big issues with fuel temps running 2 285's.

Driving around town in summer, probably like 50°C tops.

Went for a 2 hour drive before in summer, somewhere in the 60°C

Mind you, I have 3x fuel pumps. 2x 460L 1x DW200

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Driving around town in summer, probably like 50°C tops.

Went for a 2 hour drive before in summer, somewhere in the 60°C

Mind you, I have 3x fuel pumps. 2x 460L 1x DW200

Toasty! I was around the same. Around 50 but with a fuel cooler. Got my tuner to dial down the pumps and its so much better.. i think last time I drove it was around 35-40 during summer. PWM makes a huge diff. I have the 1 PWM controller running my feeds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...