Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

so some of my speakers still work some I don’t think work. The old head unit is still all functional. If I keep the stock head unit as I feel it’s vintage then can I just pop in new speakers - would that be plug and play? Would I need to bypass the amps in the doors and back? Heard there’s 3 of them. 
anyone run a blue tooth into the stock head unit? Or is the only option running one of those tape decks with cable coming out? 
my cd deck controller although rare I don’t think is working anymore either. Guess if I got that working with the speakers then I could load some cds. 
 

just seeing my options here if anyone has some advise. 

Yes, the speakers are plug and play to replace with something newer and better, as long as they have the same resistance and physically fit where the old ones do, I'd start with replacing them (because you will need to anyway) and if you still have issues will need to look into the wiring/amps/head unit (in decreasing order of likely to have failed).

For bluetooth I've used Parrot kits for years, they wire directly into the speaker cables and give you bluetooth phone and music including good quality mic for the phone (I'm almost audible when using the phone over bluetooth in the stagea, which is a miracle). I'm sure there are other brands but quality of the mic varies and it is hard to tell before you install it

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Depends on whether the speakers or the amps or the wiring are dead.

This is actually a valid point. Need to test the wiring to see if it’s still good. As my cd changer control isn’t working now. 

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Yes, the speakers are plug and play to replace with something newer and better, as long as they have the same resistance and physically fit where the old ones do, I'd start with replacing them (because you will need to anyway) and if you still have issues will need to look into the wiring/amps/head unit (in decreasing order of likely to have failed).

For bluetooth I've used Parrot kits for years, they wire directly into the speaker cables and give you bluetooth phone and music including good quality mic for the phone (I'm almost audible when using the phone over bluetooth in the stagea, which is a miracle). I'm sure there are other brands but quality of the mic varies and it is hard to tell before you install it

So u just use upgraded speakers and a blue tooth with the stock head unit? Do u have any recommendations for speaks that will fit? Thanks great info. 

The front speakers in an R32 are 6x4s which is a shit size. You can fit 6.5" woofers or coaxials in there but you need to make a mounting board from MDF. I have a post on here somewhere showing what I made.

You can fit 6.5" in the parcel shelf easily enough.

If upgrading the head unit, the stock speaker wiring is not really fat enough to run big speakers (ie the wires into the doors or up to the rear) because the amplifiers are located next to the speakers. Running new speaker wires front and rear is a good idea anyway.

  • Thanks 1

I recently replaced my speakers. I got a brand called "Hertz" from No Limit Sound in South Melbourne (nolimitcsv.com.au). DCX460 is a 6x4 two-way coax speaker for the door. A minor mod required to utilise the existing mounts. And DCX160 is a 6.5" direct replacement for the rears.

(if you're not in Melb, then I believe some Autobarn stores stock them)

Hertz are a good (euro?) brand, they specify high impedance and frequency response for factory setups. Downside is higher cost. If you can't run an amp and have to rely on factory amp, chances are Herts are a good but expensive buy.

But like I said above, having done 2 R32 steroes, it's much easier to run your own cables + amp + speakers, your head unit should only require the battery +12V and ignition +12V. You can run earths/grounds and all the other wires yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...