Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

45 minutes ago, hardsteppa said:

But also no. Because why would you install a 90's-tech manual boost controller when you can get a reasonable electronic one cheap nowdays.

I wasn't even going to try that argument. I mean, the argument is 100% valid, and I would take an old Profec over a manual controller every single day, but.....too many words to type.

  • Like 1
8 hours ago, JC71 said:

can one remove the stock wiring, bracket and "dual stage (5-7) solenoid" control assembly, if installing an aftermarket (turbosmart) manual boost control?

image_4dfb529b-407f-4f88-aff3-b5d2cb760158_1445x.jpg

Sure. Make sure to put some dielectric grease on the terminals and cap it in case future you wants to run electronic boost control again.

On 19/07/2024 at 8:19 AM, GTSBoy said:

I wasn't even going to try that argument. I mean, the argument is 100% valid, and I would take an old Profec over a manual controller every single day, but.....too many words to type.

indeed, I hear you, but, fortunately I have the time right now to type some sh!te. You can now get a cheap elctr boost controller that will do boost by throttle position, boost by engine temp, overboost protection, boost by rpm, boost by your girlfriend's menstrual cycle, boost by the lunar tides, boost by the Gregorian calendar, the whole lot. All for not much.

where is the best location to connect the pressure source line to the manual boost controller???? my rb25det neo has a front mount intercooler, and therefor the stock fitting (like in attached 1st pic, white arrow) on the upper intake pipe is not there. I only see one other smaller hose fittings on the stock intake cross over pipe before the throttle body, just below the recirculation or "BOV" valve.  currently has the blk and red little "filter" in this line. (2nd pic whit arrow)  Able to put in a T and use this one? I have also seen some pics where people appear to have T into the hose going to the recirculation valve nipple??. please advise. thanks.

boost.png

 

boost 2.png

Edited by JC71

I looked it over last evening and took a few pics. trying to simplify as much as possible. cap or remove whatever is not needed and add two lines, to and from the aftermarket manual boost controller.

there is a nipple on the aluminum/cast elbow between the turbo and intake filter,

another on the steel "hook" pipe in front of that, that looks to be connected to the rubber pipe between the turbo elbow and intake filter as well.

the one on the wastegate, and the two currently to stock solenoid valve

20240722_193922.jpg

20240722_193857.jpg

20240722_193902.jpg

20240722_193916.jpg

20240722_193844.jpg

Edited by JC71

not sure what you are calling a hot pipe...

but your saying to eliminate all hoses here, cap all nipples.

block line off the aluminum elbow off the front/top of turbo, and block the one off the steel hook pipe in front and above that, remove solenoid, and both those lines.

drill and add nipple to this intercooler pipe? in pic at red arrow, (as similar to where stock had one) and run a line for "pressure source" to the manual controller from there, then the out the controller to the wastegate?

20240722_193857.jpg

Edited by JC71

I would assume the hot pipe would be referring to the intercooler piping that comes right from the turbo headed towards  the intercooler, and the cold side would the be the pipe after the intercooler headed towards the intake /throttle body?

if this is the case, do I want it as close as possible to the turbo or furthest from, to get the most accurate reading? and would the factory fitting on the turbo elbow be the perfect location for the pressure line for the boost controller??

20240722_193922.thumb.jpg.9a49aa1481edca8303ed70dff5d79731.jpg

Edited by JC71
3 hours ago, JC71 said:

I would assume the hot pipe would be referring to the intercooler piping that comes right from the turbo headed towards  the intercooler,

Yes.

3 hours ago, JC71 said:

do I want it as close as possible to the turbo

Yes. On an R32, for example, the nipple is actually connected onto the compressor housing. Right on the front. There is probably a pad on the front of yours that could have been drilled and tapped, but likely wasn't, because they stopped putting it there, for some reason.

If there's a fitting on that elbow, then yes. Can't see it because the photo is tiny and the arrow is in the way. But yes.

wow!!!, what a difference a manual boost controller makes. simplified everything, and cleaned up the engine bay even more. It's a good steady boost now, I set it around 8 for now, no dual stage crap, seem to improved spool up delay, sounds better, and I don't have to push rpms so high to get power and torque. A few other tweaks and I think this thing will be ready to rock.

The turbo air movement rushing sound is still there and loud as ever, even though I found no play in the carriage shaft, I am convinced its from the turbo itself, as has over 100K miles and its the original stock turbo.  I plan on replacing the turbo itself over this winter as all the other turbo system components are correct.  I found and acquired a new old stock RB25DET NEO Nissan OP6 turbo 45V assembly, which I will swap out both nylon and ceramic wheels with steel ones.

thanks to all who helped! 

Edited by JC71

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...