Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to buy a new radiator cap for my Skyline because I think this one is shot. I've got the part# 2143001F02 and it seems this same part is also the radiator cap for the Nissan Sunny B13? 

https://goodstate.com.au/parts/72f01c08ec5ae1878e258c43e35b81aa?srsltid=AfmBOorhguaKBQN0nFfCaM7kjdreG3TrS4nbB3VWZWw8iFXGJtFP-jtw

I mean, the part number matches, so I'm inclined to not overthink it. These are some of the only guys in Aus I could find. Most radiator caps I find are 1.2 and I would feel more comfortable replacing with a stock 0.9 cap. I just wanted to get some kind of confirmation since their website does not show the RB25 or the Skyline as compatible. 🤷🏽‍♂️

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485764-r34-gtt-oem-radiator-cap/
Share on other sites

I know this has been discussed before, but I can see the Fenix radiator is 1.1 bar. 
https://fenixradiators.com.au/products/nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gt-rfull-alloy-performance-radiator?variant=40947446251678

1. Should I be worried about the extra 0.2 bar pressure that will be going through the whole cooling system?
Car is just a daily, only time it goes over 3K revs is when I'm merging on the highway or sick of being stuck behind a slow car 🤣

2. If I'm so worried, do I just get a 0.9 bar cap? 

If you want to be pedantic and justify it. Higher pressure means it needs to be a higher temperature to boil over.

In the real world, it absolutely won't matter at all. You can also tell yourself that an alloy radiator can handle higher pressure than one with 20 year old plastic tanks (it will).

  • Like 1

Realistically, the biggest impact of the higher pressure cap in a daily car is a coolant hose that is on its way to failing will happen a little sooner due to potential for extra pressure in the system :)

  • Sad 1
On 22/08/2024 at 12:35 PM, Kinkstaah said:

If you want to be pedantic and justify it. Higher pressure means it needs to be a higher temperature to boil over.

In the real world, it absolutely won't matter at all. You can also tell yourself that an alloy radiator can handle higher pressure than one with 20 year old plastic tanks (it will).

@Kinkstaah yeah might just be me being paranoid with how much can go wrong! 
 

 

On 22/08/2024 at 12:49 PM, Duncan said:

Realistically, the biggest impact of the higher pressure cap in a daily car is a coolant hose that is on its way to failing will happen a little sooner due to potential for extra pressure in the system :)

@Duncan Looks like I'll get replacement hoses for the radiator soon after the radiator then!!! 

 

@GTSBoy Is this the right radiator? It just says R34 and R33 so I'm assuming they all have the same radiator specs? 
I read in a guide that there is a sensor on the bottom left? Do those still fit as well?

Edited by DraftySquash
25 minutes ago, DraftySquash said:

Is this the right radiator? It just says R34 and R33 so I'm assuming they all have the same radiator specs? 
I read in a guide that there is a sensor on the bottom left? Do those still fit as well?

It should be. It's the only option (other than the cross flow, which you don't want, and the one with the shroud and fan, which is the same rad underneath anyway).

As to the sensor, I dunno. I think the spot for it is shown blank on their photos. You would be well advised to a) look on your own to see the sensor is there and that you therefore need to accommodate it, and b) ask Fenix what their provision is. You might need to drill and tap the hole, or they might do it on request or as a standard option or a delete option. (Mine is in an R32, so it's not the same thing, and I didn't order it anyway, so I don't know what we did for mine).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...