Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello from Germany,

 

i build my RB25DET Series 2 -> Target 600hp

i have now ordered solid lifters from Tomei for the cylinder head and will replace the original hydraulic lifters. Which cams can you recommend ?

It is only a street car.... Maybe i order a Garrett GTW38 or something like that.

 

and what is with the VCT ? is it blocked with the solid lifters ?

 

Attention is a RB25DET with solid lifters!

 

Thank you for your help

 

 

Lifters (solid vs hydro) do not affect VCT.

For cams, just contact Kelford in New Zealand and tell them what you want to do with the engine and that it is a solid converted 25. They'll know what to give you.

FWIW... you can probably use any cam with either hydro or solids at that power level. By "any cam" I mean, there probably isn't a particular reason for the profile to be much different between the two.

FWIW I run Kelford 264/272 9.6mm and still retain VCT.

VCT is great, enables all that low end torque to help bring on the turbo earlier compared to a non VCT motor.

22 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Lifters (solid vs hydro) do not affect VCT.

For cams, just contact Kelford in New Zealand and tell them what you want to do with the engine and that it is a solid converted 25. They'll know what to give you.

FWIW... you can probably use any cam with either hydro or solids at that power level. By "any cam" I mean, there probably isn't a particular reason for the profile to be much different between the two.

 

14 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

FWIW I run Kelford 264/272 9.6mm and still retain VCT.

VCT is great, enables all that low end torque to help bring on the turbo earlier compared to a non VCT motor.

I also intend to go solid lifter at some point with my S1 RB25. I asked Kelford if I could use my S1 VCT 264/272 (246-A2) cams and they said no. They recommended that I use their 244 NEO cams. 

18 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

 

I also intend to go solid lifter at some point with my S1 RB25. I asked Kelford if I could use my S1 VCT 264/272 (246-A2) cams and they said no. They recommended that I use their 244 NEO cams. 

when kelford answer me i will write it here. it depends on what kind of setup you want to ride.. i will take a Garrett GTW38 and 600hp for the street. and then they choose the cams...

4 hours ago, TomSky33 said:

Okay that sounds great!

How much hp do you drive and with which turbo ?

 

Made 439kW at the rear hubs at 1.8bar of boost tapering down to 1.7bar on E85. Has a (now ancient) Garrett GTX3576 Gen 2 with a 1.01 divided housing.

I just leave it on max boost all day lol.. car sees more track time than the street anyway.

2 hours ago, TomSky33 said:

when kelford answer me i will write it here. it depends on what kind of setup you want to ride.. i will take a Garrett GTW38 and 600hp for the street. and then they choose the cams...

My comment was aimed at the mention of possibly using hydraulic lifter based cams with solid lifters. I make a lot more then 600hp. It has nothing to do with power. Cam/Lobe profiles differ between hydraulic and solid lifters. Kelford stated their hydro lifter cams cannot be used with solid lifters. 

Kelford will probably recommend their 244-A2 cams for your goals. 

Cheers. 

Edited by TurboTapin
1 hour ago, TurboTapin said:

My comment was aimed at the mention of possibly using hydraulic lifter based cams with solid lifters. I make a lot more then 600hp. It has nothing to do with power. Cam/Lobe profiles differ between hydraulic and solid lifters. Kelford stated their hydro lifter cams cannot be used with solid lifters. 

Kelford will probably recommend their 244-A2 cams for your goals. 

Cheers. 

Okay, I'm curious to see what they'll say. Do you also ride these cams ? or which ones do you ride ?

 

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Made 439kW at the rear hubs at 1.8bar of boost tapering down to 1.7bar on E85. Has a (now ancient) Garrett GTX3576 Gen 2 with a 1.01 divided housing.

I just leave it on max boost all day lol.. car sees more track time than the street anyway.

 

I'll have to think carefully about the turbo and manifold. The police in Germany are very strict

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, TomSky33 said:

 

I'll have to think carefully about the turbo and manifold. The police in Germany are very strict

Same as Australia, some police officers are strict and some are lenient and don't seem to mind the modifications, provided they are semi legal.

4 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Germany is _very_ strict. Think along the lines of Mandatory full EPA every year.

Bolt up stock cat, run lazy timing on E85, should be fine yah? Lol.

I'm actually surprised he's considering running an aftermarket turbo, because the fact that it's not a stock turbo is deregister the car territory!

I would think Germany is the prime market for Hypergear highflows and ported stock manifolds, Nistune, Highflowed OEM injectors, super improved, ducted SMIC's and the like.

(or maybe it's not quite that bad)

24 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Bolt up stock cat, run lazy timing on E85, should be fine yah? Lol.

It's not just an emissions test. Think of it like a full pits inspection with need to demonstrate engineering for any and all mods every time.

  • Sad 1
20 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I would think Germany is the prime market for Hypergear highflows and ported stock manifolds, Nistune, Highflowed OEM injectors, super improved, ducted SMIC's and the like.

If the place was full of Skylines, then yeah. But there's not very many of them.

If you have a nice TÜV inspector you can get everything registered... well, almost anything. But it's quite expensive in Germany. As soon as something is wrong, the police tow your car away and it gets really expensive.

Almost all Skyline drive Top Mount... at least if you want to drive performance. The market for Japanese cars in Germany is not really big.

Kelford said 244-A's or 244-A2's.... I will probably take the 244-A2.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...