Starting again

[GTSBoy]

1 minute ago, Watermouse said:

Would heat build up be no issue?

Eg; Haltech S3

What heat build up are you asking about? Heat in the wiring providing the power to the Haltech, if remote mounted and power run via the fu(k-da-polees trick wire on the old ECU? Or heat from mounting an S3 inside an original case?

I wouldn't run all the power for the Haltech through the trick wire. You just need the activation power. The main power would have to come from an appropriately fat feed.

I wouldn't think you could fit the plastic body of a Haltech inside an original ECU case. They're pretty compact these days, but I don't think they're that compact.

[Watermouse]

Sorry for the confusion, I meant would there be heat buildup internally in the S3 that would be detrimental to the ecu situated under the seat but covered over as suggested

[GTSBoy]

Nah, Haltechs are generally able to operate in the engine bay.

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, Watermouse said:

Sorry for the confusion, I meant would there be heat buildup internally in the S3 that would be detrimental to the ecu situated under the seat but covered over as suggested

The exact same amount of heat having it mounted behind a kick panel. Probably less really, as even with some sort of sneaky cover you could give it more air breathing and ventilation.

[Murray_Calavera]

The ECU has an internal temp sensor as well, it will throw a CEL on your sexy Haltech dash if there is an issue with temps. Seems like you can also link ECU temp to engine protection in Nexus as another option.

[GTSBoy]

14 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

sexy Haltech dash

We're talking about discrete installations here!

[Murray_Calavera]

4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

We're talking about discrete installations here!

It's too sexy not to install lol. 

Plus now that you have full control over the dash design and layout, you could make it look just like the factory cluster. Might even be pretty convincing with the UC10 (no ugly buttons on the sides) in a 3D printed surround. 

[GTSBoy]

1 minute ago, Murray_Calavera said:

It's too sexy not to install lol. 

Plus now that you have full control over the dash design and layout, you could make it look just like the factory cluster. Might even be pretty convincing with the UC10 (no ugly buttons on the sides) in a 3D printed surround. 

Yeah, The UC10 is the first of these to make it all the way to "acceptable" to look at.

[Murray_Calavera]

9 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, The UC10 is the first of these to make it all the way to "acceptable" to look at.

Have you seen the firmware changes so now everything is customisable on the dash?

[GTSBoy]

4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Have you seen the firmware changes so now everything is customisable on the dash?

Yeah. I think Moog's GTR was set up with a stock looking layout on the UC10. It looks good. And that you can connect many direct connect signals to it, use it as an input extender for the ECU, etc.

Which means for me, it is almost desirable, because I could mostly/sorta use it against a Nistune ECU. But it's a lot of money to drop for an almost/sorta thing. KnowwhatImean?

[Murray_Calavera]

52 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah. I think Moog's GTR was set up with a stock looking layout on the UC10. It looks good. And that you can connect many direct connect signals to it, use it as an input extender for the ECU, etc.

Which means for me, it is almost desirable, because I could mostly/sorta use it against a Nistune ECU. But it's a lot of money to drop for an almost/sorta thing. KnowwhatImean?

Knowwhatchatmeanforsure. 

I really want one, but as I already have an IC7 I don't think I'll ever be able to justify the upgrade. 

[MBS206]

I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!

[MBS206]

3 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Knowwhatchatmeanforsure. 

I really want one, but as I already have an IC7 I don't think I'll ever be able to justify the upgrade. 

I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....

[Ozdavroz]

All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither....

When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump?

About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible

 

[Duncan]

Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs. 

One trigger pin should be either fully earthed 

The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START

(note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key)

One Pin should have a good battery voltage

The last pin goes to the fuel pump +

Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed

[GTSBoy]

This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates.

This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR.

Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.

[Ozdavroz]

Thanks heaps Duncan and GTSBoy.

I'll get my old man to sit in the driver's seat and turn it on and off while I test with the meter. Or maybe other way round, depending on whether he remembers where his glasses got to

[MBS206]

Since you pulled the pump out to siphon things, I'd start super simple, and make sure the lid is plugged in, and that the wires are going down to the fuel pump all plugged in and connected.

[Murray_Calavera]

9 hours ago, Ozdavroz said:

NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible

Made me smile lol  

[Ozdavroz]

Have pulled the fuel pump hanger out of the tank, wires all look good and still connected. Plenty of old dried up fuel caked on everything.

i got a new DW200 pump to replace the old one, thought it was a good idea while I've got everything out. 

What's the trick to getting the blue fuel pump harness disconnected from the boot floor? Just rip it out?