Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys my 94 r33 gtst fuel pump has gone out. I have a walbro 525 ready to go in but am unsure if I need to upgrade the fuel tank bulk heads? Ive heard that others have issues with the stock wiring melting...

Ive seen alot of people recommend this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-silvia-s14-s15-billet-fuel-tank-bulkhead-hat-top-an6-with-high-current-connector-apex-2-8-delphi-fpg-100?variant=42873255198898

My current pump that stopped working is aftermarket but I had no relay mod or upgraded connectors.

Need some advice please. TIA

YES.

If you have a walbro on stock wiring gauges it WILL melt.
Perhaps if you are some level of amazing crimping genius it may not. It may seem fine for ~8 years with bulkhead connectors and then melt when you're interstate in NSW and need a 1000km tow home after waiting 10 hours. Ask me how I know.

This depends on whether your car is stockish, or whether you need to keep it going in the meantime.
Depends on the power you want.

The JJ DeatschWerks kits can utilize (and do) stock wiring/pump/plugs. They won't do much more than 320 (?) kw on depending on your boost level and E85 use. They flow more on 98. 

If you need more than that... and have the cash and are going to do it anyway? Do it now. I would not be putting a Walbro 525 in my car without some upgraded AN fittings/bulkheads/etc that Frenchies use. just do the FPG hat/bulkhead fix at the same time and never worry once you put it all back together and have peace of mind.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Those Efi bulkhead terminals have been in the car for about a year now, they are perfect. 

So, upgraded wiring, relay mod, uprated terminals and you can run that pump flat out all the time no issues. 

  • Thanks 1

I'm not certain about the fuel hat connectors (noting, I DID have to replace the hat in my Stagea with one of these pumps)

However, you 100% do need to do a properly sized relay mod, the factory wiring is definitely too small for these pumps. 

I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning.

If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there.

The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue.

This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car.

IMG_20250615_101716.thumb.jpg.faddcec8b7537fdd894950a634f5597b.jpg

 

Some links I came across when I looked for solutions:

Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring.

https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031

https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx

 

You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks:

https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34

There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.

12 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Those Efi bulkhead terminals have been in the car for about a year now, they are perfect. 

So, upgraded wiring, relay mod, uprated terminals and you can run that pump flat out all the time no issues. 

Mine was great for years too!

  • Like 1
12 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You never drive your car at 100% all day, why does your fuel pump need to be at 100% all day?

Hasn't risen high enough on the to do this yet for it to be done lol. 

One day it will be done... one day...

11 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Mine was great for years too!

I know, but I tell myself its ok because I took a heap of temp measurements of the terminals over a 12 or so hour drive, temps were never an issue. Plus I made sure to pat the bulk head and say "she'll be right". So, yep she'll be right lol. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...