Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys my 94 r33 gtst fuel pump has gone out. I have a walbro 525 ready to go in but am unsure if I need to upgrade the fuel tank bulk heads? Ive heard that others have issues with the stock wiring melting...

Ive seen alot of people recommend this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-silvia-s14-s15-billet-fuel-tank-bulkhead-hat-top-an6-with-high-current-connector-apex-2-8-delphi-fpg-100?variant=42873255198898

My current pump that stopped working is aftermarket but I had no relay mod or upgraded connectors.

Need some advice please. TIA

YES.

If you have a walbro on stock wiring gauges it WILL melt.
Perhaps if you are some level of amazing crimping genius it may not. It may seem fine for ~8 years with bulkhead connectors and then melt when you're interstate in NSW and need a 1000km tow home after waiting 10 hours. Ask me how I know.

This depends on whether your car is stockish, or whether you need to keep it going in the meantime.
Depends on the power you want.

The JJ DeatschWerks kits can utilize (and do) stock wiring/pump/plugs. They won't do much more than 320 (?) kw on depending on your boost level and E85 use. They flow more on 98. 

If you need more than that... and have the cash and are going to do it anyway? Do it now. I would not be putting a Walbro 525 in my car without some upgraded AN fittings/bulkheads/etc that Frenchies use. just do the FPG hat/bulkhead fix at the same time and never worry once you put it all back together and have peace of mind.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Those Efi bulkhead terminals have been in the car for about a year now, they are perfect. 

So, upgraded wiring, relay mod, uprated terminals and you can run that pump flat out all the time no issues. 

  • Thanks 1

I'm not certain about the fuel hat connectors (noting, I DID have to replace the hat in my Stagea with one of these pumps)

However, you 100% do need to do a properly sized relay mod, the factory wiring is definitely too small for these pumps. 

I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning.

If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there.

The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue.

This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car.

IMG_20250615_101716.thumb.jpg.faddcec8b7537fdd894950a634f5597b.jpg

 

Some links I came across when I looked for solutions:

Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring.

https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031

https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx

 

You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks:

https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34

There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.

12 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Those Efi bulkhead terminals have been in the car for about a year now, they are perfect. 

So, upgraded wiring, relay mod, uprated terminals and you can run that pump flat out all the time no issues. 

Mine was great for years too!

  • Like 1
12 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You never drive your car at 100% all day, why does your fuel pump need to be at 100% all day?

Hasn't risen high enough on the to do this yet for it to be done lol. 

One day it will be done... one day...

11 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Mine was great for years too!

I know, but I tell myself its ok because I took a heap of temp measurements of the terminals over a 12 or so hour drive, temps were never an issue. Plus I made sure to pat the bulk head and say "she'll be right". So, yep she'll be right lol. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...