Jump to content
SAU Community

Zedtt Race Car With Skyline Bits.

Boosted Zed
 Share

Recommended Posts

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
Posted

Yes many wonder and think we are cheating, and well yes we are. I thought to disclose some of our secrets of our zed tt race car and why it goes so well. Yes Nissan make some things universal to different family of cars and engines as we have found over the years of checking. My zed actually has quite a few GTS-T and GTR bits including.

Nismo GTR bushes in diff and control arms. Nismo don't make much for zeds adn don't even know that some GTR bits fit zeds as not listed in their catalogue.

R32 GTR Cusco upper rear adjustable control arms. A bit heavy though soon to go chromolly custom.

Modified NISMO R200 R32 GTR diff centre with R32 GTS-4 crown and pinion 4.375 ratio. About 20 kilos lighter, much better ratio than the heavy zed 3.7 which is also a slushy viscous coupling.

Tomei GTR solid lifters, valve springs, retainers and shims. converted from hydraulic lifters similar to RB20 and 25. Solid lifters seat better at higher rpm and accommodate custom cams.

Turbo's are similar to N1 but are actually new 200SX S15 ball bearing.

Soon to have N1 silicon crank and cam seals, yes VG and RB same here and N1 stand more punishment with heat I guess and are orange in colour.

Did have R32 GTR water pump pulley with holes drilled to suit 300ZX 4 stud viscous fan. Being larger but same offset and belt size, this slowed the water pump down so it did not cavitate as much at high revs. I now use electric water pump and thermo fan.

Motor going back in next week with R33 GTS-T lighter alloy power steering pump rather than heavy zed NA cast iron one I have been using. Yes thanks to Nissan bolts straight up other than high pressure hose so getting this moded to suit.

Nismo R33 GTS-T gear box mount. New alloy light weight body rather than steel factory one, and is also stiffer for better throttle response and less energy loss.

Nismo 555cc RB20 top feed injectors with custom fuel rail that sits above factory plenum instead of below the plenum. Instead of factory side feed. Also was able to use custom alloy high flow fuel rail, and open up engine for better cooling as it keeps the fuel rail out and away from hot engine block and heads. Plus as a bonus the injectors were incorrectly ordered by a customer a few years back and I thought may as well use them.

R33 GTR accelerator peddle which has a bulge at bottom for heal toe. No GTS-T's don't have and YES GTR peddle also goes straight on and only about $15 from memory.

I am sure this is not the end of it and it does seem to keep happening.

Lots of other parts fit such as R32 or R33 GTR brakes but went 6 piston.

Zed and R32 GTR have same gear box by they way. As in the middle bit with the gears that is. Lots of other bits I won't go into here. I have only listed what is better for zed.

Not sure what Zed bits a GTR would want other than AFM and motor.

OK who's first Skylines Rule etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49063-zedtt-race-car-with-skyline-bits/
Share on other sites
Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bottom end is built and the rest of the motor is going back together over next week, then she goes in. Did a few mods such as custom cams with 10 degrees more lift, extrusion honed the factory exhaust manifolds and did some match porting and a few other things. It has a big SKYLINESAUSTRALIA sticker on the back maybe a GTR sticker on the front hey?

Duncan how is your GTR going and are you coming to our track day for the big GTR v ZED challenge?

B-Man Grand Master

B-Man

Posted
Posted

Ummmm I think my Skyline has something from a Zed... Ummmm Ummmm , let me think.

Oh Yeah - I remember.........

The Nissan Badge.

JP I don't know why you go to all the trouble of making your VG more like an RB - just put the RB26 DETT in it and be done with it mate. Will save you heaps of the R&D you are doing that prooves RBs are superior to VGs and VQs.

:cheers: he he ;)

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well there have been a few conversions to RB26 into Zeds which is backwards wondering if anyone would go the other way. Big prob is the 4 wd set up.

The new generation ALLOY block VQ30 is the way to go which many of the Jap GTR GT500 Circuit cars are using.

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
  • Author
Posted
pfft don't worry about the small VQ30 go straight for the big block VQ35 ;)

They are expensive and hard to get but looking into stroking the VQ30 to VQ35. Getting info from Nissan re this, probably same block just different sleave, pistons and rods. We will be getting ARGO rods anyway and forged pistons so no biggy there. 100 kilos lighter with more HP and torque and maybe two Disco Potatoes and wacko probably 450rwkw with out too much lag. The new Nissan range is strong, nicley balanced and not only much lighter but much lighter rotating mass. We pulled appart a VQ30 NA that we are using as a jig and as a test we weighed the scond hand pistons and rods together, not cleaned so had some carbon and oil, the maximum variations was .5 of a gram. To give you an idea this is one small posted note. That is VERY good. A workshop near us was rebuilding a 350 Chev V8 boat anchor Commodore motor and just pistons alone were 8 grams difference and they were new.

  • 3 weeks later...
Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also has R34 GTR rims on it thanks to Steve at Just Jap which we used at Drift Nationals. They realy suit the car and the GTR badge on the centre caps look the part. We actually used a VQ30 all alloy power steering pump on it. Not sure if I mentioned but it also has R32 GTR Nismo diff mounting bushes.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

I imagine you have passed a casual eye over this animal...Autech Tsukada Z32, basically VQ35 with HKS 3037. I like the idea of twin GT28s better.

Hope UAS go thru with it, when i win Powerball ill pay for the container over to Japan with some Aussie built cars, could even perhaps surprise a few ppl

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...