Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it safe to take the redline up to 7500rpm or so? With stock internals, and a PowerFC. I've got an adjustable exhaust cam gear so that should help with any breathing problems, but I'm also worried about affecting the longevity of the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49107-increasing-redline-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 156
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Long term = completes a track session

Standard internals = un-opened motor

:D

:cheers: always the realist ;)

I took mine to 7500rpm no drams for over 12 months.

Motor died - but that wasnt due to revs, just a few too many psi snuck in one night and caused it to ping.

So 7500 all the way.

Although, i found with stock cams, the car didnt have any go after about 7300 at that was still pushing it.

Also due to many other factors aswell im sure, like ECU and all sorts of other things

There is no point at all to increasing the redline, You will lose so much power after 6500RPM that its not even worth it. It may seem like its still pulling but on the dyno it shows that the HP drops like hell.

Although, i found with stock cams, the car didnt have any go after about 7300 at that was still pushing it.  

Also due to many other factors aswell im sure, like ECU and all sorts of other things

I'm only considering it because I've got an exhaust cam wheel, and will be running 15 psi after the tune. I used to run 15psi with the factory ECU, but the PowerFC at the same boost maxes out my injectors and AFM. So I'm running at 11psi until I get it tuned.

Anyway I'll see what the mechanic has to say when I take the car in. At least now I know I have some room to experiment.

I've run my Skyline up to 7500 for over 9 months now, I have had no drama's with this setting, however yes in Dyno runs I have found that there is no real power increase around the 6500 mark. I am running a Haltech E6K I think with a Stock engine and turbo along with ARE intercooler. I pulled about 187kw out of the rear wells and about 1350nm of Torque which I thought was quite high but this has been verified by two different dyno stations.. Also running the stock turbo at 14psi with a 3" Dump running into a Apexi 3.75 cat back exhaust.. (yes it scraps everywhere). I did a recent check and found compression to be around 135-150 over all 6 cylinders.. I have been told this is about right for a skyline, I dunno? shrug :P I think that a GT2540 would be great to upgrade to with new 700+cc injectors with fuel rail and pump to be upgraded as well. What ya think? do you think a new Cam gears would be wise too?

Aridyne

The exhaust camwheel retarded 3 or 4 degrees is good for enhanced torque low and midrange. In all our dyno runs stock and modified power tended to drop off fairly sharply over 7000. In the early days we hit 8200 on a regular basis.....but not anymore. After 3 years of street/drag/track the engine still doesn't use any oil between 5K changes so I guess the revs didn't hurt it any. When you get it tuned and see your power curve then you can decide on your rev limit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...