Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
We have a ball bearing hi flowed RB25DET turbo on our RB20 DET and it makes 225 rwkw (~380 bhp) at 1.3 bar (19 psi).  It makes 165 rwkw (~300 bhp) at 0.9 bar (13 psi).

Thanks SK, I always wondered if in the real world 1PSI=10kW?

By your example it looks like a reasonable rule of thumb.

Now if I can just pump 50PSI into my RB20DET, I should be able to do 10's :D

Thanks SK, I always wondered if in the real world 1PSI=10kW?

By your example it looks like a reasonable rule of thumb.

Umm, not always. I have tried a larger turbo, one with more airflow, and it made more power at lower boost. But the average power was crap, so this one is faster. :rofl:

quote: LOL...get a TD06, makes 180something rwkws at 0.65bar. Only it needs 4500rpm to make that boost

If you have owned your car for a while and its been pretty healthy then id say you wont have any problems with 300hp. Whats that 190-200rwkws...

__________________

For Sale - Trust TD06-20G setup

Piccie HERE

its more like 220- 225rwkws

Doc, can you get your hands on a rb25 turbo at all as it might be an idea to bolt one on to get a different turbo responce going, also with the last dyno result you got it seems very low rwkw's for the mods you have, evey tuners guide and rb20det rwkw thread i've read seems to point to around the 160rwkw mark for the mods you have and a standard turbo running 14psi, get someone who can play with the link system to dyno the car for you as i think you get a much different result without to much stuffing around. (300fly wheel hp)

Matt....

The dyno reading was crap, he gets that power from manual HSVs with aftermarket computers extractors and cams. It was more power than he gets with VL turbos after installing IC and reprogramming. So his reading was shit. I rang the guy with the dyno and they get a reading of 150rwkw for a worked VY(?) Monaro with way over 300fwkw. So I don't think he knows what he is doing either.

I get 15psi at 3200 rpm so it isn't a huge turbo. I just don't know what it is but I know it has been rebuilt and there is nothing ceramic in it.

I get 15psi at 3200 rpm so it isn't a huge turbo. I just don't know what it is but I know it has been rebuilt and there is nothing ceramic in it.

post up some pics here say with it sitting next to the standard rb20det turbo someone may have a ruff idea, also with the supra fmic set up you have that might be keeping to much heat in the air as a mate here also runs one with his r31/rb20det and always runs hi-temp's, at least 20degrees higher than mine all the time. good luck with it all...

What has boost pressure got to do with coil packs?? RPM and coils are related but the amount of fuel and air being pushed in are nothing to do with the ignition.

BTW, the car crapped itself on Friday (dud wire going into the back of the EFI relay). While fixing it I found 2 boost leaks from the manifold to the charcoal canister. So I blocked one and rerouted the other to the BOV. It boosts damn hard now, it comes on like a kick up the backside.

Yeah, a RB20DET + TD06 running .65bar and making 300hp will not be as fast  as a RB20DET + RB25 turbo running closer to 1bar and making 300hp....

I dont think thats right? It only made 180something rwkws at 8 psi measured at the inlet manifold, and i can promise you it would blow the door off the std turbo running 14psi...so highly doubt it will have too much trouble with an RB20 running an RB25 turbo :D

Not saying its the greatest setup, but comparing it to an RB25 turbo is like chalk and cheese. :P And next time back for tuning it will be getting 18psi, then it will be half a quick car.

My TD06 20G LS2 (the more letters the better :D) on my RB20DET os getting tuned up at the moment.So far its only been boosted upto 10 psi (waiting for EBC) but at this its putting out 185rwkw. Once I have EBC ill get it tuned up to 18ish psi and post the results.

What has boost pressure got to do with coil packs??  RPM and coils are related but the amount of fuel and air being pushed in are nothing to do with the ignition.

BTW, the car crapped itself on Friday (dud wire going into the back of the EFI relay). While fixing it I found 2 boost leaks from the manifold to the charcoal canister.  So I blocked one and rerouted the other to the BOV.  It boosts damn hard now, it comes on like a kick up the backside.

Hey??? Can you please explain this a weee bit more??? IE which tubes to where, etc. Cause I swear Im missing something hey.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...