Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh btw becareful of the air con vents

Amen to that. You can tell where Nissan saved pennies on the R32 dash :cheers:

Out of interest, does anyone know of a place that makes or can supply aftermarket R32 air vents? I was thinking of seeing if I can get some replacements made out of aluminium or similar: would make a vast improvement and last a lifetime IMHO.

Lucien

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Amen to that.  You can tell where Nissan saved pennies on the R32 dash :cheers:

Out of interest, does anyone know of a place that makes or can supply aftermarket R32 air vents? I was thinking of seeing if I can get some replacements made out of aluminium or similar: would make a vast improvement and last a lifetime IMHO.

Lucien

you could get a metal fabricator do do it for you

but IMO it wouldnt be worth it

just get some brand new ones are they will last long enough

  • 1 month later...

I did the dash of my lancer and it came out very good so good in fact that people commented on that they did not know that it was a factory option... when painting plastic parts you must give everything a really good clean with a scrub/toothbrush then use a very fine sand paper to just rough up surface so that Plastic Primer will stick but before priming use some Prepsol to wash it down to remove any grease -wax dirt etc.. then several light coats of colour (acrylic) you can go to to an automotive paint supply place and they can custom make colours for you in an areosol can then after the paint has set then several light coats of clear after it has dried (24hr) use a mild cut and polish and apply to surface this will help to remove any minor dust and give the clear a high polished finish my interior parts lasted 3 years with no scratches or chips make sure you paint when it is warm and no dampness is in the air and place can of spray paint into bucket of hot water this will ensure when you spray the paint it will be thin coats and will not splatter onto surface

any tips on getting all the consol off successfully without doing any damage??

wanna give this a try but dont wanna fk anything at the same time, never pulled the consol/dash out before

anyone with a 33 that has done it please post steps??

thanks

well I had a try at pulling my interior apart on saturday and was surprised at how easy it all was and have finally decided on the colour looking at the PPG type paint that changes colour looking at red/blue/purple.... doing the gear boot and E brake in a blue micro sauede which will be followed through the rest of the interior and the seats will be grey and blue...

just need to work out how to remove the trim around the power window switch from the main part of the door handles and also the trim just under that were the door pockets are

any tips here :rofl:

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I'm with you man...Who needs air vents??

post-11392-1162480667.jpg

post-11392-1162480755.jpg

To paint the interior panels I did a very half-assed sanding, cleaned with a quick wipe of metho then painted with a coat of touch-up paint primer, then with a sliver metallic touch up paint, then with a clear coat again, from the touch-up-paint section! Over a year now and still shining.

  • 1 month later...

(Done on a 96 r33 series 2) CAMERA ISENT GREAT, so may be a bit blurry. but you get the idea of how it looks and how smooth it is

have done my dash and all interior. after trial and error, i found the only and best way to do this is:.. sand your plastic till all the paint is of and it feel smooth. (i used 240 to 400 grain sandpaper) then primer with gret plastic primer, (dont use clear primer!) i done about 3 coats, but to be real, just look at it and make sure the hole thing looks good, and the primer is all the same shade of grey all over the plastic. THEN..

paint, i help my bits in the air, so i could spin them with my hand to get it evan, and so there wasent light patches and everything was sprayed!.. again, i sprayed, held it for 1 min, then sprayed again, i kept going to it all was one color (shake can well to get it heated up, hotter the paint the thinner it is, so no spots or dark patches)

let it dry, then i sanded it with a 1200 grain sandpaper, very light motion with your hand, dont press hard, just hand weight on the paper, make sure you sand all of your bits, in sides, were the clock is, any little hard to get place, just rub your finger over each spot you have sanded and make sure its smooth, it should come out the same color you panited with but a little lighter, this is only to smooth out the paint.. now paint again till it looks good.. now that shoulds look smooth.. i sanded mine again, real light, then painted, the more you sand lightly, the smooth it will get... i painted, then sanded with 1200, thenm painted, then sanded, then painted . after this, do a cut and polish, i used a all in one, $8, rub it on, then rub off, then rub of with a clean cloth, now wet the part with water, and now clean with that clean cloth. make sure to get it real clean. now! that will make it shinnty ann super smooth. no one can do it beta..

i painted everything.. dash, side door, vents, window controls, door handle, the part above the speedo cluster, gota take everything out for that.. also painted the steering colum, looked crap without that painted. and painted key hole.. put my boost gauge in vent for the moment ..

i had a black sheet of plastic under the cd deck, just waiting to put some gagues or boost controller in there to make it look beta then the piece of crap tray i had there before, which looked out of place.. "

hope this helps any one. cause i fooled around a bit to get it perfect!..

(CHECK OUT WHAT THE ORIGINAL DASH LOOKED LIKE) i can never go back to that boring thing.. fells nicer to driver now and alot more modern from what people have been saying when they get in..

im still changing things to match. boot/handbrake / shift knob and seats.. wish i could use a silver momo wheel. but damn air bags!!

Edited by seriesII

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...